The Supreme Wizard Formation stands as a compelling climb on the east side of the Owens River Gorge, just beyond Monkey to Monkey Cliff. This wall demands attention with its defining large roof — a dramatic feature that challenges climbers with steep overhangs and technical moves. Two of the most talked-about routes here are Gravitron (5.12d) and Lat Machine (5.12a), both showcasing the gorge’s character: powerful and demanding lines that reward focused effort.

Getting to Supreme Wizard is straightforward for those familiar with the Upper Gorge. You can approach from the Lower Elbow Room or via trails from the central portion of the gorge. The terrain on approach varies, crossing rocky paths and stretches of sagebrush, so sturdy footwear and some patience during transitions are necessary. GPS coordinates place the wall at approximately 5,604 feet elevation, giving climbers crisp mountain air and expansive views as they prepare to climb.

The climbing area itself is part of the larger Owens River Gorge system — a place revered for its diverse climbing styles and range of difficulties. The rock is solid and often commands respect, with varied features including cracks, roofs, and face climbs. Climbers here appreciate the balance between adventure and technical rock work. While the area offers many classic routes like Drill Sargeant (5.8), Pinkpoint Panther (5.9), and Men in Tights (5.11a), Supreme Wizard’s routes stand out for those seeking sustained challenge.

Weather plays a key role in planning your trip. The Owens River Gorge experiences a seasonal pattern allowing prime climbing from spring through fall, avoiding the harshest winter months. Days are often warm, with cooler evenings, so layering is recommended. Shade is limited on the Supreme Wizard wall, so early starts help dodge the midday heat.

One critical note for visitors: current access is affected by bridge removals mandated by the LADWP due to liability concerns. This impacts routes throughout the Owens Gorge, including Supreme Wizard. The climbing community, through groups like the Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund, actively works to restore safe and responsible access. In the meantime, respect all closures, park responsibly off pavement, and carry out all waste, including dog droppings. This stewardship is vital to preserving access and the fragile environment.

Gear-wise, climbers tackling Supreme Wizard should be prepared for sport climbing gear setups, with quickdraws sized for sustained bolt protection on long routes. The nature of the climbs suggests strong finger strength and power endurance will be your allies. While not boulder-focused, bringing a crash pad for approach scrambles or downclimbs could be useful.

Descent options from climbs here generally involve walking off or short downclimbs—rappelling is rarely necessary but climbers should come equipped for varied terrain on exit paths. Keep in mind that loose rock can appear on trails near the base, demanding cautious footing.

The climbing vibe at Supreme Wizard appeals equally to those chasing classic Owens River projects or pushing into steeper, more technical terrain. The routes have earned reputations ranging from solid 5.8s that deliver consistent fun, up to thrilling 5.12 climbs that test every bit of power and technique. The grade scale here generally leans neither soft nor sandbagged; it fits well within expectations for the Owens Gorge and adjacent Eastern Sierra climbing hotspots.

In sum, Supreme Wizard Formation rewards climbers who value a raw, unfiltered climbing experience set against California’s striking high desert backdrop. Its imposing roof, detailed routes, and access within the storied Owens River Gorge make it a must-visit for adventurers ready for well-protected sport climbs with real character and an unmistakable sense of place.

Classic climbs like Drill Sargeant (5.8), Pinkpoint Panther (5.9), and Men in Tights (5.11a) sprinkle the area with varied challenges and unforgettable moves. For climbers preparing their next trip, thorough approach planning, adherence to local access guidelines, and readiness for sustained technical climbing will ensure both safety and gratification in this distinct corner of the Eastern Sierra.