Monkey to Monk Cliff rises abruptly on the east side of the Owens River Gorge just beyond the narrows, offering climbers a tall, vertical wall that demands focus and skill. As you exit the narrow canyon, the cliff reveals itself boldly, towering over the trail as it bends right, a stark and inviting face cut from the rugged eastern Sierra terrain at an elevation of 5,708 feet. This spot offers an experience that balances the excitement of steep, exposed climbing with the quiet majesty of the Owens River canyon environment.

To reach the cliff, plan for a hike through the narrows—a trek that is as much about attentive footing as anticipation. The approach trails wind through rocky passages and forested sections where the river’s roar fades into occasional birdsong and the crackling sound of dry leaves. Despite the natural serenity, this area currently faces access challenges. Bridges in the Gorge have been removed due to LADWP liability concerns. Negotiations continue, but for now, climbers must respect these closures and seek alternative river crossing points, ensuring the land remains protected and accessible for the future.

Classic climbs here include well-regarded routes such as Switch it Up (5.8), The Light that Never Goes Out (5.9), and several variations at the 5.10 to 5.12 range. Notable lines with solid star ratings like Fear of the Facial (5.11b) and Full Stainless Skivvies (5.12b) highlight the cliff’s potential for technical, powerful moves. These routes offer varied challenges—crack climbs, face climbs, and sustained sequences—that suit a range of skill levels without sacrificing the area’s rugged essence. The climbing grades here generally feel true to difficulty, with the harder routes presenting authentic tests of endurance and technique without undue sandbagging.

Gear up with a rack suited for traditional climbing, as fixed protection is sparse. The rock is typical Owens River Gorge granite, requiring careful placement—tri-cams and cams covering a medium to large range are recommended. The verticality of the cliff means your shoes will need to balance edging precision with sensitivity for subtle holds. Given the cliff’s east aspect, mornings offer cool, shaded conditions ideal for fresh, powerful climbing. Afternoons can bring sun and heat, especially during summer months, so plan your climbs accordingly, aiming for spring through fall to avoid colder winter spells and potential river swell from snowmelt.

Descent involves some careful downclimbing or rappelling. Familiarize yourself with route anchors and always scout the rappel stations before committing. The proximity to the river and narrow canyon demands awareness of footing on loose rock and slippery sections near the base. This approach and descent are not just part of the logistics but integrated aspects of the climbing day that add to the sense of adventure and remoteness.

Preserving this climbing enclave means respecting local guidelines. No camping or overnight parking at access points, parking off pavement to avoid blocking gates, and rigorous waste pack-out rules keep the Gorge wild and welcoming. Dog owners should carry out all waste, a small but vital step to maintain route quality and community goodwill. Public outhouses are few but available, so use them to minimize environmental impact.

Monkey to Monk Cliff is a raw slice of Owens River Gorge climbing that rewards those who arrive prepared and respectful. Whether you’re drawn by the classic climbs steeped in local lore or the straightforward challenge of tall, vertical granite, this area promises a climbing experience grounded in nature’s uncompromising beauty and the thrill of hands-on engagement with the rock. For climbers looking to connect with the landscape beyond the bolts and crowds, this destination delivers.