"McCracken Wall offers a gritty, cold-edge climbing experience on the west side of Owens River Gorge. With a challenging bushwhack approach and classic moderate to advanced routes, it calls to those ready for raw, engaging climbing deep in California’s Eastern Sierra."
McCracken Wall stands as a rugged sentinel on the west side of the Owens River Gorge, directly opposite the Supreme Wizard Formation. This spot is famously known as one of the coldest locations in the gorge, a feature that demands preparation but also offers a refreshing respite from the desert heat. Approaching the wall is an adventure in itself—expect to bushwhack your way down through dense, nettle-heavy underbrush before crossing what can only be described as a precarious log pile that tests your balance and nerve above the river. Once there, you’ll find several ways to start your climb: either belay 'Micro Pete' from the riverbed or scramble your way up to a ledge for a better position, or take a more direct 3rd class route up and right to reach the climbs that begin on ledges. Each approach has its own challenges and rewards, setting the tone for the serious yet grounded experience this wall demands.
Elevation here rests near 5,687 feet, and while the rock type isn't specified, the climbing quality and character of the routes make McCracken Wall a distinctive destination in the Owens River Gorge. The area's exposure to cold winds means layers and timing your climb carefully are key. Prime climbing windows tend to span the cooler months and shoulder seasons when the weather swings neither to extremes nor freezes your fingers off.
The vibe around McCracken Wall is raw and gritty—ideal for climbers who appreciate a rugged, hands-on approach rather than polished tourist climbs. Classic routes here include 'Party On Sean' (5.8), a welcoming moderate test, as well as stiffer challenges like 'Ego Unchained' (5.10a), 'Badda Bing, Badda Boom' (5.10b), 'Party Pooper' (5.10d), 'Duncans Route' (5.11a), and 'Fu*kin Wise Guys' (5.11a). These names hint at the variety of difficulty and style available, providing something for those eager to push their limits along solid lines.
However, an important note for visitors: access to the Owens River Gorge is currently impacted by bridge removals due to ongoing negotiations with LADWP. Climbers should prepare for detours, respect all closures, and practice excellent land stewardship. This includes parking responsibly, respecting no-camping rules, cleaning up all trash and dog waste, and utilizing outhouses where available. Following these guidelines ensures the climbing community remains welcome and the fragile gorge stays protected.
The climbing at McCracken Wall is primarily single pitch, making it accessible for a range of skill levels and styles. Protection generally requires a traditional rack geared towards the routes’ demands, though fixed anchors and natural ledges support easier belays. The wall’s orientation on the west side means afternoon sun can be long, but the cold often keeps conditions brisk and comfortable.
After a rewarding day of climbing, descent involves careful downclimbing or rappelling from established anchors—taking caution near ledges and steep terrain. The approach and river crossing emphasize the importance of solid footwear and balance, adding an extra layer of adventure before and after your climbs.
In all, McCracken Wall delivers a climbing experience that’s refreshingly elemental. It invites climbers to embrace the rough edges of the Owens River Gorge with routes that range from moderate to challenging. Whether you’re coming for the solitude, the cold breeze off the river, or the chance to send some quality hard routes, this wall’s blend of raw access and varied climbs rewards those who come prepared and ready to climb hard.
The approach requires careful navigation to avoid copious nettle and a risky log crossing over the river. The cold climate can bring slick surfaces, and some ledges are small, so secure footing and layering are essential. Be cautious of falling hazards and always double-check anchors for stability.
Avoid parking or camping overnight at access points to respect local guidelines.
Use outhouses and pack out all trash, including dog waste.
Be prepared for a tricky approach involving nettle and unstable log crossings.
Check bridge closures and prepare alternate crossing points; follow current Access Fund updates.
Approach requires a bushwhack through nettle and a precarious log crossing over the river. Protection is traditional, with natural ledges and fixed belay spots. Rappel anchors and downclimbing are used for descent. Prepare for cold conditions and bring gear to protect classic trad routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.11a.
Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.