"Exhibit A carves a straightforward but rewarding line on Eldorado Canyon’s Redgarden Wall, blending traditional protection and aid climbing across three well-defined pitches. With moderate difficulty and a solid rack required, it’s an appealing option for climbers poised to sharpen both free and aid skills amid Colorado’s steep granite."
Exhibit A offers an unpretentious gateway into the rugged vertical world of Eldorado Canyon’s Redgarden Wall. This three-pitch route climbs roughly 270 feet, threading a distinctive line starting at a slabby flake beneath a commanding roof feature. From the moment you set off near the center of this roof, just left of the popular 'Alice in Bucketland,' you’ll immediately engage with the rock’s textured personality—smooth slabs give way to pockets and flakes that challenge your balance and placements. The climb strikes a balance that appeals to climbers who appreciate traditional protection and the occasional reliance on aid techniques to overcome trickier sections. With a rating of 5.8 C2+ R, it demands practical skills without veering into overly technical territory, making it a compelling choice for intermediate climbers looking to sharpen both trad and aid tactics.
The rock here feels alive—gravity pulls you against a canvas of rough stone that’s part puzzle, part playground. Protection consists primarily of traditional gear paired with aid pieces, a reminder that this isn’t simply a free-climb exercise but a test of adaptability and gear trustworthiness. The route’s location on Redgarden Wall within Eldorado Canyon State Park situates it in an area renowned for steep, exposed walls framed by the Colorado foothills. From the climb, expect commanding views that stretch eastward towards Boulder’s outskirts, with morning light casting sculpted shadows and afternoon sun warming the granite.
Planning your ascent calls for a competent rack geared towards a mix of nuts, cams, and aid gear—an essential blend to secure your progress safely. The approach is straightforward, but the wall’s vertical challenge leaves no room for complacency. The three pitches flow with a logic of their own: the initial slab tests footwork and patience, the midsection layers in more securing moves and aid placements, and the finale rewards with a satisfying pull onto the upper ledges. Pay attention to your gear placements and stay vigilant around runout sections due to the route’s R (runout) rating.
For preparation, the best climbing window runs from late spring through early fall when stable conditions persist, avoiding the icy touch of winter mornings or sudden summer storms common in the area. Footwear with solid edging capability will serve well on the slab sections, while a helmet is non-negotiable given the exposure beneath the roof and potential for loose stone. Hydration and sun protection are vital, especially during warmer periods.
With only a handful of ascents recorded publicly, Exhibit A invites climbers seeking a less trafficked experience that blends moderate difficulty with classic Eldorado grit. It’s a climb that respects tradition—demanding to be approached with measured focus and respect for its aid sections—while rewarding those with steady hands and a clear head. For adventurers eager to test their mettle in one of Colorado’s premier climbing venues, Exhibit A offers a sincere introduction with just enough edge to keep things engaging.
Runout portions require careful gear placement to minimize fall consequences, especially near the roof feature. Loose rock can be present—stay alert beneath overhangs and wear a helmet at all times.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and afternoon winds on the wall.
Double-check all aid gear for secure placement before weighting it.
Wear shoes with precise edging to handle slab sections confidently.
Bring plenty of water as no reliable sources exist near the base.
A traditional rack including nuts, cams, and aid gear is essential, with particular attention to placements for protection under the roof and past runout sections.
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