HomeClimbingErickson's Wide Crack

Erickson's Wide Crack - Wind Tower SW Face, Eldorado Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
offwidth
crack climbing
trad
stiff crux
short pitch
exposed
boulder area
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Erickson's Wide Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Erickson's Wide Crack delivers a bold offwidth experience on Eldorado Canyon's Wind Tower southwest face. Steep and physical, this 70-foot pitch rewards climbers with impeccable crack technique and a rare challenge in a popular climbing area."

Erickson's Wide Crack - Wind Tower SW Face, Eldorado Canyon

Erickson's Wide Crack offers a rare and invigorating challenge on the southwest face of the Wind Tower, located within the iconic Eldorado Canyon State Park. This variation pitch stands apart with its steep, offwidth climbing—a distinctive feature not commonly found in this climbing area. Approaching the climb, you'll find yourself starting on the first pitch of Wind Ridge, moving to a ledge where an optional belay awaits. From here, the route diverges: rather than following Breezy’s line to the left, Erickson's invites you to tackle a demanding corner just a few steps above the belay, working out and to the right side. This section tests your technique on delicate flakes before giving way to the crux—a bulging wide crack that demands commitment and strength.

As you place protection, a #5 Camalot at the crack's base serves as your anchor. The bulge requires persistent fist jams and knee locks, occasionally calling for old or new #4 Camalots to power through the steep, clean rock. Once you lock into the crack, the climbing eases noticeably, climbing the crack until you reach the arete and merge back with the Wind Ridge route. The climb extends roughly 70 feet, enough to feel substantial but direct enough that many parties run it as a single 200-foot pitch from Breezy/Wind Ridge’s base all the way to the walk-off ledge above, minimizing rope drag.

The surrounding Wind Tower offers riveting views of Eldorado’s towering sandstone walls, and the exposed position justifies careful attention to rockfall hazards, especially when parties below are on Breezy. Although relatively short in length, this climb's true draw lies in the physicality and novelty of sustained offwidth movement—an uncommon challenge here. This is a pitch best suited to climbers prepared with the appropriate gear and mental readiness for a sustained, gritty crack, and those seeking an experience beyond the typical Eldorado friction routes.

Planning this outing means packing a standard light trad rack with the addition of a new-style #5 Camalot, paired with an old or new #4 to handle the bulge. Longer slings are advisable if you intend to rope the entire pitch in one go, ensuring smooth movement without drag. Approach the Wind Tower early to avoid the afternoon heat and afternoon climbers on nearby routes. The descent follows a walk-off ledge with straightforward terrain but requires careful navigation to respect rocky terrain and avoid loose debris.

In all, Erickson's Wide Crack stands as a hidden gem for crack enthusiasts, offering a genuine offwidth experience amid Eldorado’s classic sandstone cliffs. This variation pitch combines technical challenge with stunning exposure, rewarding climbers with a sense of accomplishment and unfiltered connection to one of Colorado’s premier climbing destinations.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose flakes above the initial belay; rockfall hazard is real and can affect parties climbing Breezy underneath. The crack itself is clean but steep and requires confident offwidth technique to avoid hanging on the gear.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and crowded pitches on nearby routes like Breezy.

Use a #5 Camalot at the base of the offwidth bulge for reliable protection.

Be mindful of loose rock above the belay that can fall onto climbers below on Breezy.

Plan for a single 200' rope pitch to minimize drag and reduce belay transitions.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9- PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- PG13 rating is fair for the physicality and technique required on the offwidth bulge. Some climbers may find the crux feels stiffer than a typical 5.9 due to the sustained fist jams and steep angle. Compared to other Eldorado routes, this climb demands specialized crack skills and power, standing apart as a unique test of grit and body positioning.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard light trad rack including a new-style #5 Camalot and an old or new #4 Camalot for the offwidth bulge. Longer slings are useful to reduce rope drag if linking the entire pitch.

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Tags

offwidth
crack climbing
trad
stiff crux
short pitch
exposed
boulder area