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Doug's Variation at Crater Crag

Golden, Colorado United States
trad cracks
sport bolts
single pitch
mixed protection
Golden cliffs
technical finish
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Doug's Variation
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Doug's Variation offers a single-pitch detour from Rancid on Crater Crag’s steep granite face near Golden, Colorado. Balance precise crack moves with strategic gear placement on this 5.9- route that reveals its true character once you’re on the wall."

Doug's Variation at Crater Crag

Doug's Variation unfolds as a subtle deviation from the well-known Rancid route, tucked into the rugged contours of Crater Crag at North Quarry near Golden, Colorado. Offering a brief but rewarding challenge, this single-pitch climb demands equal parts finesse and strategy. As you step off the ground, the first half mirrors Rancid’s crux, guiding your hands along a sharply angled crack that requires an awkward yet confident reach. The wall reveals itself as a patchwork of textured rock, demanding both delicate footwork and firm placements. Approaching the final moves, your left hand finds purchase near the top edge while the right grips a distinctive large block, balancing on this natural feature before skirting left to reach the anchor formed by a weathered pole and carefully placed gear.

The climb’s protection blends sport bolts with traditional gear, offering a sense of security while inviting thoughtful gear placement. Four bolts provide reliable clipping points, but additional cams—ranging from a green Alien to #1 Camalot or wires—are essential for maintaining peace of mind. The anchor setup calls for specific pieces such as yellow, orange, or red Aliens or a #0.75 Camalot, complemented by 48-inch slings to secure your belay.

Beyond the physical moves, the route’s location immediately grabs your senses: the granite walls of North Quarry rise sharply, their irregular surfaces catching the shifting Colorado sunlight, while the air carries the faint scent of pine and mountain dry earth. The crag’s orientation offers a mix of sun and shade throughout the day, making early morning or late afternoon climbs especially pleasant in warmer months.

Accessing Doug’s Variation means negotiating a manageable approach through the Golden Cliffs area. The trail is straightforward, winding through open rocky terrain punctuated by scrub and small pines. Expect a 15-minute hike from the closest parking area, with GPS coordinates honing your way to Crater Crag’s base precisely. The approach trail maintains good footing but watch for loose stone patches near the climb’s base.

Though the route appears modest in length at 50 feet, it carries a subtle complexity with its 5.9- rating—soft on the scale but demanding focus, particularly on the crux and finish. The move onto the big block at the top adds a distinct flavor, giving the climb a memorable touch beyond its brief duration. Climbers familiar with North Table Mountain’s local offerings will notice this route provides a refreshing variation that's more engaging than initial glimpses might suggest.

Whether you’re tuning up your trad game or looking to blend sport and trad climbing in a singular dose, Doug’s Variation delivers an accessible yet intriguing outing. Prepare with a mix of cams and bolts, mindful footwear for smear and crack technique, and timing your ascent to enjoy the wall’s interplay of light and shade. With a modest star rating but unique character, this route invites rediscovery and subtle mastery—a concise piece of the greater Golden climbing puzzle that leaves you eager for your next climb in these sharp Colorado cliffs.

Climber Safety

Watch your foot placements on the approach where loose stones gather, and double-check the stability of the large block near the top. Protection is solid but requires careful gear selection, especially for the anchor.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach takes about 15 minutes on well-defined trails; watch for loose rock near the base.

Bring a mixed rack focused on small to medium cams and wires to complement the bolts.

Climb best in early morning or late afternoon for ideal temperature and shadow patterns.

Be cautious on the final moves where the large block can feel unstable—test your holds.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9-, this climb sits on the easier side of technical trad routes but demands precise movement and comfort on cracks. The crux in the lower half echoes Rancid’s challenge, while the finish requires careful balance atop a block. Compared to other Golden area climbs, it’s approachable yet satisfying.

Gear Requirements

Four bolts combined with cams from green Alien through #1 Camalot or wires provide solid protection. Anchor gear includes yellow, orange, or red Aliens, or a #0.75 Camalot paired with 48-inch slings.

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Tags

trad cracks
sport bolts
single pitch
mixed protection
Golden cliffs
technical finish