"Offering a compact ascent on Chair Rock’s east face, Destination Unknown combines technical trad cracks with sport bolts for a precise, engaging climb. This one-to-two pitch route tests your crack skills and chimney technique amidst the serene wilderness near Buffalo Creek."
Perched on the east face of Chair Rock, Destination Unknown offers a compact yet invigorating climb that blends technical trad moves with sport bolts, perfect for climbers seeking a short but memorable push. Approach this route by scrambling a gully wedged between The Chair and The Knight, navigating a forest floor mottled with sun and shade as the creek hums nearby. The climb begins on a wide left-leaning crack—just shy of nearby lines blues for Allah and a striking six-bolt route—which tightens as you ascend to a small ledge. Moving upward, you engage a series of three bolts before reaching a strategic sling belay anchored with a #2.5 Friend for added security.
The second pitch challenges you through a narrow slot and over a boulder, pushing past three aging bolts. A technical lieback leads you into a squeeze chimney lined with new bolts, introduced recently by Dana Prosser, making protection here more manageable than before. The chimney demands precision and patience, testing both strength and technique as you work your way through its confining walls. The descent is straightforward: an 80-foot rappel off the back, relying on solid fixed anchors that provide a reliable exit after your push.
The climbing style here calls for a versatile rack ranging from small cams to a #4 Camalot. The route’s mix of old and new bolts, combined with natural cracks, invites climbers to bring a mix of traditional gear and sport confidence. This climb feels perfect for a late spring or early fall day when temperatures balance cool shade and sun, avoiding the intense afternoon heat common at lower elevations.
Though brief, this route serves a concentrated dose of diverse climbing challenges, from crack jams to friction moves in the chimney. Its proximity to the South Platte offers a quiet backdrop punctuated by rustling aspens and distant calls of raptors, reinforcing a sense of connection between climber and mountain. Destination Unknown rewards those who embrace its blend of judicious gear placement and athletic movement, promising a satisfying experience without the sprawling commitment of longer climbs in the area.
Loose rock can be an issue on the gully approach and near the base; helmets are recommended. The squeeze chimney is narrow and demands attention to body positioning—beware of sharp edges and test all placements carefully.
Scramble the gully between The Chair and The Knight carefully; loose rock can be present after storms.
Time your climb for mid-morning to avoid afternoon heat on the east face, especially in summer.
Check your rack for a #2.5 Friend and a #4 Camalot—both are essential for secure placements.
The rappel anchors at the top are solid but double-check your setup before descent.
Prepare a standard trad rack up to a #4 Camalot, plus draws for the three bolts on pitch one and the recently added bolts in the chimney on pitch two. Bring nuts and cams for placements in the wide crack and slings to back up the main belay.
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