"Crimson Crime is a sharp, technical single-pitch trad climb tucked into the Red Wall of Staunton State Park. Its left-facing dihedral demands precise gear placements and a confident step over a distinctive roof, offering a perfect blend of challenge and scenic Colorado alpine charm."
Crimson Crime stands as a compelling trad climb on the striking Red Wall within Staunton State Park, Colorado. This 80-foot route packs focused technical challenges into a single pitch, demanding precise footwork and steady gear placements. Imagine a steep, left-facing dihedral carving a path upwards, its textured walls catching afternoon light and offering a tactile playground for hands and feet. The initial approach tests your skill with a choice of lines that bypass the steepest technical terrain, leading to the dihedral around 15 feet above the base—an inviting structure that both guides and tests your movement.
The climb’s protection is a balanced mix of fixed bolts and traditional gear, calling for careful placements up to size #3 cams, ensuring solid security while negotiating the subtle roof feature midway. This small roof challenges you to step back onto the face, requiring a deliberate move that blends strength with composure. The anchors rest at the top, held by two bolts, providing a secure point to wrap up your ascent and admire the sandstone walls gently glowing in the mountain sun.
Located within Staunton State Park, a favorite among Colorado's climbing community, Crimson Crime benefits from the park’s approachable access and stunning natural surroundings. The Red Wall’s red sandstone holds weathered lines that appear both raw and inviting, while the surrounding forest offers a cool backdrop and crisp mountain air. The route’s moderate 5.9 rating strikes a practical balance—accessible to many dedicated trad climbers yet delivering just enough bite to keep you engaged.
Climbing Crimson Crime means immersing yourself in a climb that rewards careful preparation and steady technique. Footwear with good edging capability and a full rack with cams up to #3 are recommended. Start early to catch the softer morning temperatures and avoid the afternoon’s warming sun on the rock face. The approach trail is straightforward and well-marked, threading through pine and aspen groves before revealing the Red Wall’s striking profile.
For climbers looking for a focused trad experience in a stunning mountain setting, Crimson Crime offers a concise yet memorable challenge. The combination of technical climbing, solid protection options, and scenic surroundings make this route a reliable choice to sharpen trad skills while soaking in Colorado’s natural beauty.
Watch your gear placements near the roof; the move requires secure protection due to limited fixed bolts and potential swing hazards. The rock quality is generally stable but take care on less-weathered sections. Seasonal afternoon heat can make the sandstone slick—aim for morning climbs when the surface is cooler and dry.
Start early to avoid heat on the exposed sandstone face in the afternoon.
Bring climbing shoes with strong edging to handle delicate footwork in the dihedral.
Approach via the well-marked trail through pine and aspen stands—it’s under 20 minutes from parking.
Double-check placements on the small roof to ensure a secure move back onto the face.
Plan for a full trad rack up to #3 cams, complemented by approximately five fixed bolts, including two anchors at the top. The route requires solid gear placement skills, especially around the roof feature where protection is crucial.
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