HomeClimbingCore Blimey

Core Blimey: A Classic Trad Challenge on Scheelite Wall

Bishop,California ,United States
thin hand crack
face climb
multi-pitch
granite
Bishop
Sierra Nevada
trad gear
orange dike traverse
Grade: 5.9
Length: 350 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Core Blimey
Aspect
South Facing

Core Blimey

5.9, Trad

Bishop

California ,United States

Overview

"Core Blimey is a compelling three-pitch trad route on Scheelite Wall, mixing thin hand cracks, face climbing, and carefully spaced protection. Ideal for climbers ready to step up technical skills while soaking in Bishop’s rugged granite landscape."

Core Blimey: A Classic Trad Challenge on Scheelite Wall

Core Blimey stands as a compelling trad route carved into the rugged Scheelite Wall, offering climbers an engaging balance of technical crack climbing and bold face moves across three sustained pitches. Set in the striking environs of Pine Creek Canyon near Bishop, California, this climb demands sharp awareness and steady nerves. From the outset, the route invites adventure, beginning with a strenuous 5.9 climb into a pod before linking to a thin hands crack that tests precision and footwork. The first pitch then challenges you to negotiate a subtle traverse around a distinct orange dike—a section with sparse protection but manageable exposure. Anchoring yourself atop a sandy ledge at the base of the next pinnacle provides a necessary moment to gather focus.

The second pitch refreshes with a short, easier crack between the pinnacle and main wall, quickly escalating into a face climb capped by a bolt and diagonal traverse rated at 5.9. The true highlight here is the wide flare harboring a perfect finger crack that encourages confident jams while the route arcs diagonally toward natural belay spots among small bushes. This pitch blends variety seamlessly, rewarding detailed movement and tactical gear placements.

On pitch three, the character shifts into more open climbing with a low-angle hand crack that feels welcoming after the steeper sections. As you step diagonally right, a lieback offers a moment to engage different muscles before reaching a short fat crack that demands patience and precision on the pro. This pitch culminates with a careful traverse up onto a slab—watching for rope drag—where well-placed bolts guide you to the summit’s bolted belay station. Midway here, you can steal a glance downward at the famous Chips Off The Ol’ Block route, a reminder of Bishop’s deep climbing heritage. For those looking to push beyond, the optional fourth pitch extends onto Chips, presenting a sustained 5.9 lieback and corner climb with limited protection and potential fall zones.

Core Blimey isn’t a beginner’s outing, given its technical demands, occasional scant gear placements, and sustained cruxes especially on pitches one, two, and possibly four if extended. However, it rewards those who acknowledge the route’s cadence with a blend of movement that ranges from thin hand jams to delicate face transitions, all framed by the vivid granite that defines this part of the Sierra Eastside. The climb’s 350-foot length is manageable in a day, but careful planning around rope management and protection strategy proves essential.

Access to Scheelite Wall is straightforward from Pine Creek Canyon, involving a moderate hike over well-worn trails that carve through scenic dry forest and granite outcroppings. The approach time typically falls under 30 minutes, with coordinates at approximately 37.38916 latitude and -118.67362 longitude anchoring this slice of Bishop climbing history. Early mornings or late afternoons are ideal for climbing here, as the wall’s aspect delivers welcome shade during warmer months and ample sun during cooler seasons.

Those ready to invest focus and stamina into Core Blimey will find a route that balances engaging climbing and classic trad adventure. Prepare with a full standard rack including doubles to 2 inches, with a few optional larger cams in the 3 to 3.5-inch range to address the fat crack on the third pitch. Protective layers for the traverse on pitch one should be arranged carefully, as pro is limited yet the climbing remains approachable. Hydration and sun protection matter here, given the high desert environment.

In summary, Core Blimey is a compelling climb that deserves attention for its rich climbing texture and the chance to experience a high-quality 5.9 adventure on the Sierra’s east side. It carries the feel of a Valley classic in both style and commitment while offering an experience tuned to Bishop’s legendary granite variety and quiet splendor.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on the pitch one traverse around the orange dike—protection is sparse and a fall there could lead to a pendulum. The pinnacle’s ledges can be sandy and loose; test holds carefully. When extending to the optional fourth pitch, be aware of runout sections and potential decking hazards.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.9
TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length350 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday heat, as the wall gets sun exposure in the afternoon.

Pay special attention to rope drag on the slab traverse of pitch three—watch your line.

Bring extra webbing to extend gear placements, especially in sections with limited pro.

If extending to pitch four (Chips Off The Ol' Block), prepare for a few runouts and tricky protection.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Core Blimey feels true to the effort, with several cruxes that push climbers at this technical grade. The initial splitter crack tests thin hand jams, and the traverse on pitch one adds a mental challenge due to limited protection. The face climbing sections keep it engaging without overreaching. For those familiar with Bishop’s granite, this route sits comfortably with other solid 5.9 climbs, offering a bit more sustained sequence and varied moves.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with doubles to 2 inches, plus one or two larger cams (3-3.5") for the short, fat crack on pitch three. Focus careful placements on the pitch one traverse where protection is sparse.

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Tags

thin hand crack
face climb
multi-pitch
granite
Bishop
Sierra Nevada
trad gear
orange dike traverse