"The Scheelite Crags and PSOM Slab reveal a rugged, multi-faceted climbing landscape just a short drive up Pine Creek Canyon. With soaring pinnacles and deep slot canyons, this area challenges climbers with few developed routes yet promises a bold, raw Sierra climbing experience."
Long before you step onto the rock at Scheelite Crags and the PSOM Slab, the drive up Pine Creek Road sets the tone — winding through a landscape marked by sharp elevation gains and evolving from broad canyons to more defined rugged features. Scheelite Crags stands as the first significant climbing destination in this part of the canyon, its terrain an intricate puzzle of soaring pinnacles, jutting buttresses, and narrow slot canyons. Each element crafts a landscape that’s as three-dimensional as it is captivating, offering more than just climbs but a compelling sense of place that unfolds as you ascend.
The climbing here doesn’t overwhelm you with quantity. Instead, it draws you in with quality and variety concentrated within three key sectors: Scheelite Wall, Elderberry Buttress, and the PSOM Slab — the "Palisade School of Mountaineering Slab." Each area has its own distinct flavor, from the blank slabs that demand precise footwork and mental focus, to more featured rock that invites a range of techniques.
Accessing Scheelite Wall is straightforward yet demands a bit of attention — about 7 miles up Pine Creek Road, past the twisty sections, you’ll find a clear dirt pullout on the right. A short walk leads you through sagebrush and alongside a nearly hidden trail marked by a stone arrow, winding steadily through an old sidewalk path before turning rocky. Cairns guide you across talus fields and into a gully beneath a massive blank boulder, the final push delivering you to the base of the wall. This approach mixes the quiet expectation of discovery with the physical workout of terrain that shifts from earth to rock.
For Elderberry Buttress and the PSOM Slab, the approach starts a bit further up – park near a tree grove 0.3 miles beyond Scheelite’s pullout. The trail is faint but follows a clear direction toward the left base of the PSOM Slab, eventually meeting the gully under Elderberry Buttress's blank slab. The less-traveled paths here contribute to a feeling of solitude, even within popular climbing seasons.
Climbing at Scheelite Crags spans a range of mid-grade to challenging routes, from the approachable 5.7 "Racing Lizards" to the more demanding 5.12d "Casanova." Routes like "The Big Deal" and "Silver Streak" both carry high marks for their sustained, thoughtful movement and solid rock quality. The climbs reflect the area’s reputation for straightforward but engaging Sierra granite — the rock demands respect more than it punishes, with cracks and faces that reward clean technique. Classics such as "Finger Crackin' Good" and "Dangleberry" hint at the technical variety and commitment required here, while "Sun Kissed" and "The Flight Of Icarus" offer climbers eye-catching sequences paired with memorable exposures.
The elevation at around 7,100 feet means the seasons play a significant role in your climbing conditions. Spring through fall offers the best weather windows, while winter snows shut down access. The rock faces mainly face east to southeast, soaking in morning sun and providing cooler shade in the late afternoons — an important factor for planning your day to avoid mid-day heat.
Protection here tends toward traditional gear with some fixed anchors on select routes, meaning climbers should bring a standard rack including cams and nuts, with an emphasis on smaller to medium sizes due to crack widths. The approaches can be somewhat overgrown in spots and require sharp eyes to stay on trail, adding an element of backcountry navigation to the day’s adventure.
Descending from Scheelite Wall and its neighbors is a mix of short rappels and careful downclimbing, with rockfall a constant concern. Careful routefinding on descent trails minimizes risk, but climbers should remain alert and plan for a deliberate exit.
Scheelite Crags and PSOM Slab form part of the greater Pine Creek Canyon climbing scene within the Bishop Area, renowned for its access to diverse rock and quiet, off-the-beaten-path experiences. This location rewards climbers who seek more than crowded crags — it delivers raw Sierra climbing where the landscape speaks plainly and challenges are met with focused effort and respect.
If you’re preparing to visit, target the spring through early fall months for optimal conditions, pack layers for temperature swings, and ready your gear for protection and navigation. Whether you’re drawn to classic moderate climbs or more demanding lines, Scheelite Crags offers a distinctive adventure that grounds you in the rugged beauty and steep rock of California’s Eastern Sierra.
Be cautious of loose rock on approaches and during descent, as talus and rockfall hazards exist especially near gullies and slabs. Trails can be faint and overgrown, so navigation requires attention. Elevation and exposure demand preparation for sudden weather shifts.
Park at the dirt pullout 7 miles up Pine Creek Road for Scheelite Wall access.
Look for the stone arrow marking the hidden trail entrance on the approach to Scheelite Wall.
Approach Elderberry Buttress and PSOM Slab from the tree grove parking 0.3 miles past Scheelite.
Climb best in spring to early fall to avoid snow and cold temperatures at elevation.
Routes generally require a standard trad rack focusing on a range of cams and nuts, with an emphasis on smaller to medium-sized protection. Some climbs have fixed anchors but the majority depend on traditional placements. Approaches are rugged with overgrown paths and require sturdy footwear and attention to navigation.
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