"Elderberry Buttress offers adventurous climbers clean granite slabs and a classic multi-pitch trad experience high above Pine Creek Canyon. With its challenging approach, traditional gear placements, and standout routes like Regular Route and Casanova, this remote crag rewards those ready for a genuine Sierra climbing adventure."
Perched high above the rugged expanse of Pine Creek Canyon in California's Eastern Sierra, Elderberry Buttress stands as a striking granite beacon for climbers seeking both adventure and tradition. Unlike the more accessible and often sport-heavy crags nearby, Elderberry offers a commitment to classic climbing style with its multi-pitch routes and predominantly traditional protection. The wall’s clean slabs rise sharply from the canyon floor at an elevation of about 7,510 feet, demanding careful navigation on the approach before rewarding adventurers with some of the area's finest granite climbing.
Getting to Elderberry Buttress is part of the experience. Start by parking near the deciduous trees lining the creek that drains Pratt’s Crack and Scheelite Canyon. Here, it’s worth pausing to study the large southeast-facing shield of Elderberry—a natural monolith made vivid by the play of sun and shadow. The approach calls for a cautious yet engaging hike through sagebrush and scattered junipers, following well-marked ledges that zigzag upward. After about 150 feet, expect to make a move back right into the drainage gully. This route offers a choice between a fun but water-polished chimney rated 5th class or a ledge system that winds its way up with manageable scrambling sections. For the bold and confident, a short, steeper 5.7 pitch with some exposure leads to rappel bolts that serve as a key access point to the gully.
Once you reach the base beneath the large juniper tree—which casts welcome shade on a generous ledge—you’ve arrived at the launchpad for Elderberry’s climbs. This area feels remote, as if you’ve slipped into a different era of climbing where gear placement and route-finding are as vital as strength and technique.
Climbers who have sought out Elderberry speak highly of routes such as Regular Route (5.9), Youngerberry (5.10a), and the powerful Casanova (5.12d). These classics offer a mix of engaging slab and face climbing that tests balance and finger strength, with each pitch delivering a distinctly Sierra granite texture and challenge. Although the grade range from 5.9 to 5.12d covers different skill levels, the overall vibe leans toward solid, clean granite traditions—routes protected by nuts and cams rather than bolts, underscoring the area’s commitment to traditional ethics.
Elderberry Buttress also demands respect for its alpine environment. Weather can swing sharply—daytime warmth gives way in the evening to crisp mountain air. Best climbing windows cluster from late spring through early fall, when stable conditions favor tackling the southeast-facing walls without the hindrance of snow or slick rock. The approach and descent both require attentiveness; downclimbing is possible but not recommended due to loose rock and exposure. Instead, rappels from fixed anchors guide climbers safely back to the base, allowing one to savor not only the climbs but the return journey through the canyon’s wild landscape.
On the practical side, gear up with a solid traditional rack, including cams that fit often-variable crack widths, and a couple of tri-cams just in case. The protection placements on several routes favor thoughtful gear choices over sheer reliance on bolts. The ledges provide sufficient space to organize ropes and rest, but the approaches and climbing demands call for nimble footwork and solid route-finding skills.
For climbers visiting Bishop or the greater Eastern Sierra, Elderberry Buttress stands out as an authentic experience—where the approach excites, the granite inspires, and the rides up and down the rock feel earned. It’s a chance to reconnect with the elemental joy of putting gear into real cracks on real rock amid some of California’s most striking alpine landscapes.
In summary, Elderberry Buttress is more than just a climbing area: it’s an immersive blend of purity, challenge, and natural beauty. If you’re drawn to clean, granite slab lines with multi-pitch rhythm and the satisfaction of traditional protection, this remarkable crag in Pine Creek Canyon deserves a spot on your climbing radar.
Approach includes 4th and low 5th class scrambling on ledges; the water-polished chimney near the gully base can be slippery and dangerous. The descent is best accomplished by rappel from fixed anchors rather than downclimbing due to exposure and loose rock. Always check weather conditions, as sudden shifts are common in this elevation and can impact rock quality.
Park at the deciduous trees near the Pratt's Crack/Scheelite drainage for easy access to the approach trail.
Take your time on the approach ledges, avoiding the wet, polished 5th class chimney unless confident in chimney climbing.
Rappel anchors are fixed halfway up the approach gully—use these for safe, efficient access and descent.
Plan climbs between late spring and early fall for the most stable weather and dry granite conditions.
A traditional rack with a range of cams and nuts is essential. Tri-cams are recommended due to variable crack sizes and protection opportunities. Fixed rappel anchors are present for descent, and climbers should be comfortable with multi-pitch gear management.
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