"Dihedral Two presents a polished, challenging climb on the south face of the Whale’s Tail in Eldorado Canyon. Stiff but accessible, this single-pitch trad route demands precise footwork and offers rewarding moves on uniquely slick diagonal corners."
Dihedral Two stands on the south face of the Wind Tower, a distinct formation forming part of the iconic Whale's Tail wall in Eldorado Canyon. The approach delivers a strong sense of immediacy—the steep trail between the footbridge and a nearby cave brings you within arm's reach of two vertical dihedrals that challenge both technique and resolve. This particular climb sits on the left-most dihedral seen from the Streamside Trail, offering a gritty, slick experience for those stepping into its polished stone embrace.
At a 5.9 grade, Dihedral Two feels a touch stiffer than its listed difficulty, making it a solid choice for climbers ready to test balance and strength on smooth, worn rock. The route demands a thoughtful approach to protection — you'll need to place a few small nuts and TCUs as you ascend, carefully working your way through a crux that sits uncomfortably close to the ground. The polished nature of the South Face means every move requires deliberate foot placement and steady body tension to cling to the corner and flakes leading upward.
Once past the crux, the climb opens into a series of moves over the corner and onto an inviting slab. Here, you’ll find space to build a secure anchor with larger gear, offering a brief respite and a chance to admire the rugged canyon views that unfold behind this wall. Descending is straightforward: either continue your way to the top slabs or opt to traverse climber’s right, reversing a well-known adjacent route to reach the backside of the Whale’s Tail.
Eldorado Canyon’s environment is rugged and dynamic. The South Face of the Whale's Tail constantly reminds you of the raw forces that polished these vertical dihedrals until they challenge your grip and nerve. The route doesn’t dazzle with sheer vertical elegance but rewards persistence with interesting moves and good pro placements. The surrounding forest hums quietly with distant creek water and the occasional call of wildlife, framing your climb in the natural heartbeat of Boulder’s legendary climbing grounds.
For anyone aiming to take this route on, solid footwear with sticky rubber is essential to conquer the sometimes slippery rock surfaces. Timing your climb in the morning or late afternoon avoids the direct, baking sun on this south-facing wall, keeping the rock grabbable and the challenge fair. Hydration is key—the dry air of the foothills can sap your energy faster than expected.
In a climbing area rich with possibilities, Dihedral Two offers a compact, technical taste of Eldorado’s character — a route that sneaks up on you with its subtle difficulties and leaves you with a satisfying sense of accomplishment tucked into a quiet corner of one of Colorado’s most storied climbing parks.
The polished rock surface increases the risk of slipping during critical moves, especially near the ground-level crux. Solid, precise gear placement is essential, as is attentive footwork. Avoid climbing when the rock is wet or after rain, as the smooth surfaces become even more hazardous.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber to handle the slick, polished rock.
Start early or late in the day to avoid the intense afternoon sun on the south face.
Bring a standard trad rack focusing on TCUs and stoppers for this route.
Descend by either finishing the slab top-out or traversing climber’s right to the backside slabs.
Place a few small TCUs and nuts along the route. Larger gear can be set for the belay at the slab near the top.
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