Chimney Changa stands out in the Lower Gorge of Owens River Gorge as a compact yet satisfying sport climb that blends technical moves with straightforward accessibility. This 70-foot route invites climbers to engage with a sequence defined by a tight chimney crack and a bulging face peppered with inviting pockets. Starting with a smooth insertion into a narrow gap just beyond three bolts, the climb demands precise body positioning and steady footwork. As you navigate rightward from the chimney, the route shifts to a bulgy transition that tests your strength and balance before opening into a pocketed slab that leads directly to the anchors.

The landscape of Owens River Gorge enhances the experience with its rugged volcanic formations and the hush of the nearby river daring you to push ahead with focus and resolve. The location’s arid climate often results in warm, dry rock that offers excellent friction but can heat up under the midday sun, making an early start a wise choice.

Protection on Chimney Changa is straightforward, with a line of eight fixed bolts providing confident clipping points up to solid anchors at the top. The bolts are well-spaced to encourage continuous movement but still allow brief rests in the pocketed sections. For those gearing up, a single quickdraw rack is sufficient, making this route a great option for climbers looking to hone their sport climbing technique without hauling a hefty gear bag.

Getting to Chimney Changa is an approachable endeavor. From the main pulloff on the Lower Gorge Road, the approach involves a well-marked 15-minute walk over rocky terrain, weaving through sparse pinyon pine and sun-baked granite slabs. The trail isn’t overly technical but requires sturdy boot traction due to loose scree patches.

Experienced climbers will appreciate the 5.9 rating here, which sits comfortably accessible but still demanding enough to require a confident skill set, especially on the bulge. The crux is not overwhelming but requires commitment, especially as fatigue sets in after navigating the chimney section. Compared to other routes in the Lower Gorge, Chimney Changa offers a focused, condensed challenge that rewards precision and composure over brute strength.

For safety, climbers should remain mindful of the sun exposure; hydration and sun protection are essential. The granite can become slick if moisture lingers from early morning condensation or after rain, so timing climbs after dry conditions is recommended. Descent is straightforward, with double rope rappels from fixed anchors, and gear for rappel rings is essential.

This route fits neatly into an afternoon of climbing in Owens River Gorge, ideal for those ready to engage with technical movement on solid rock while enjoying an accessible wilderness area with minimal approach fuss. Whether you’re polishing your sport climbing skills or seeking a direct route that delivers straightforward fun, Chimney Changa offers a practical and rewarding experience wrapped in the quiet energy of California’s eastern Sierra rock.