"Blocky Top Area in California’s Owens River Gorge offers renewed climbing opportunities on steep, scenic walls. With routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.11b and a growing local following, this once quiet sector provides a refreshing alternative for climbers seeking solid moderate challenges away from the crowds."
The Blocky Top Area offers climbers an exciting mix of quiet rediscovery and solid, well-protected routes tucked into a distinctive corner of California’s Owens River Gorge. Once nearly forgotten and boasting just a handful of climbs, this area has seen a steady revival, transforming it into a welcome alternative on crowded weekends when nearby classics draw crowds. Here, over 20 routes cover a range from 5.8 to 5.11b, catering to intermediate climbers eager to challenge themselves while enjoying a less congested atmosphere.
Arriving at Blocky Top means navigating a landscape shaped by the gorge’s steep walls, positioned just upstream of the more visited Diamond Face and Diamondback sectors. The approach is as much part of the experience as the climbing — below the northernmost cliffs, you’ll find the access point just downstream of a lone power pole perched on the cliffs, marked by a striking, massive boulder lodged mid-stream in the river below.
Crossing the Owens River here requires attention to conditions. When water levels drop, crossing logs jammed together can provide a precarious but manageable shimmy over the stream. Higher flows demand a more careful scramble over the pointed boulder, using stem techniques or careful hops to reach the opposite side. These variable conditions add to the adventure and call for solid footwork and situational awareness at every visit.
Elevation at Blocky Top sits around 5,400 feet, offering climbers moderate altitude that brings cooler air and clearer skies compared with lower desert spots. The surrounding forest and exposed rock walls provide a rugged backdrop - unpolished, honest climbing where every hold counts. The routes lean heavily towards sport climbing, with bolts placed for security but demanding solid technique and a seat at the table in the 5.8 to 5.11b range.
Among the well-regarded classics here are the likes of Book of Runes (5.8), Friends in Lower Places (5.8), Chimney Changa (5.9), and Trianthia (5.9), each offering a distinct style of movement and terrain. For those seeking a step up, climbs like Block Party (5.10a), Pillow Fight (5.10b), and Captain Quickdraw (5.10c) provide exhilarating sequences that reward precise footwork and confident clipping. At the high end, Membership Has Its Privileges (5.11a) tests endurance and delicate balance.
Climbers visiting Blocky Top should be mindful of ongoing access challenges. Due to liability issues, bridges across the Owens River Gorge have been removed by request of LADWP, preventing the use of established crossing points. The local climbing community and advocacy groups are actively negotiating to restore access, but for now, visitors must respect these closures, park responsibly off paved surfaces, and follow leave-no-trace principles strictly. Avoid camping at access points, carry out all trash and human waste, clean up after pets, and use the outhouses available to maintain this delicate ecosystem.
The overall vibe at Blocky Top is one of rugged accessibility – an area that rewards those who bring patience and attentiveness. It’s a place where climbs are generally straightforward but demand attention to protection and route-finding. The rock quality and protection are consistent, with bolts placed to ensure safety without sacrificing adventure. Expect a solid single-pitch experience with mostly sport climbs, making it ideal for a day trip from Bishop or a stopover on a longer Sierra climbing excursion.
Best climbed in the spring through fall, the area offers both sunlit walls and shaded sections depending on the time of day, allowing climbers to plan their tick list around comfort and conditions. Descending is typically back down the approach trail or scrambling back across the river boulder. This requires focus and good foot placement, especially at higher flows.
Blocky Top’s evolution from an overlooked cluster of routes to a thriving climbing spot underscores the spirit of exploration and stewardship central to the Owens River Gorge community. Whether you’re chasing solid moderate sport routes or looking for a social but less crowded venue, this area delivers a grounded, compelling climbing experience set against the scenic grandeur of California's Eastern Sierra.
River crossings can be tricky depending on water levels—use caution on jammed logs or the pointed boulder scramble to avoid slips. Additionally, the removal of bridges requires extra care reaching climbs, and maintaining good footing on loose terrain is critical.
Check river flow before visiting - high water makes crossing more challenging.
Respect access rules: no camping or parking overnight at trailheads.
Park off pavement and avoid blocking gated entrances.
Carry out all waste and clean up after pets to help preserve access.
Routes in Blocky Top are well-bolted sport climbs requiring a standard lead rack including quickdraws. Due to river crossings and rocky approaches, sturdy shoes and perhaps river sandals for the crossing are recommended. The area sees some protection challenges during variable water levels, so climbers should prepare for careful scrambling and balance when approaching the routes.
Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.