"Diamond Face stands out as one of the most improved cliffs in the Owens River Gorge, California. With fresh routes ranging from accessible 5.9’s to challenging 5.12 climbs, this west-facing wall offers both variety and quality in a rugged, scenic setting."
On the western edge of California’s Owens River Gorge, Diamond Face emerges as a climbing area reborn, rewarding those who seek a balance of fresh challenges and classic adventure. This cliff, historically overshadowed by more popular neighbors, has earned the title of most improved, thanks to several new routes that have brought renewed energy to the area. Noteworthy among these is Still Not a Player at 5.11b, a standout line known for its flow and difficulty, complemented by nearby Diamondback and Dead Crow Buttress that expand possibilities for climbers of various skill levels.
Arriving at Diamond Face requires a bit of determination. The footbridges once used to cross the river have been removed due to liability concerns, causing an adjustment in access strategy. From the Lower Gorge parking area, climbers follow the road past Big Tower and Pink Wall. After rounding a bend near Grey Wall marked by grand cottonwood trees, a further 5 to 7 minutes upstream brings you to a prominent pointed rock in the river. Careful scrambling or a well-timed hop across this rock is required, followed by a careful descent downstream along cairned trails lasting about 12 to 15 minutes, delivering you directly to the base of the Diamond Face. This access, while slightly more involved, offers an intimate approach that feels like a small adventure before the climb even begins.
The elevation of around 5,085 feet places this area comfortably within the Eastern Sierra climate zone, making spring through early fall the prime climbing season. The west-facing aspect means afternoon shade is limited, but morning sun creates perfect conditions for early starts before the heat builds. Average weather patterns here favor dry days with occasional desert breezes, rewarding those prepared with ample water and sun protection.
Diamond Face is home to a diverse range of routes catering to climbers wanting everything from moderate challenges to pushing their limits. Routes like Keeps Me Out of Rusty’s (5.9) and Bob and Eric Crack (5.10a) offer approachable lines, perfect for climbers honing their crack and face skills. More advanced climbs such as Mickey Mantle 2.0 (5.11c) and Together We’re Too Strong (5.12a) challenge seasoned climbers with sustained difficulty and technical sequences. The rock itself is solid and well-bolted in sport sections, encouraging confident leads with a secure sense of protection.
As you ascend, the exposed limestone walls provide stunning views over the winding Owens River below and the rugged gorge enclosing you. The area maintains a strong ethic of stewardship emphasized by local climbers and conservation groups. Visitors are urged to park responsibly off pavement areas, avoid overnight camping at trailheads, and diligently pack out every bit of trash and waste. The removal of footbridges reflects ongoing negotiations with local authorities, reminding climbers to tread lightly and respect any closures.
The descent from Diamond Face involves retracing steps along the riverbank, requiring care on uneven terrain and potentially slippery river rocks. No established rappel stations exist here, so climbers should be prepared for the downstream hike back to parking.
Gear-wise, bring a standard sport rack including quickdraws as many routes are bolted. While trad protection is less emphasized here, carrying small cams and nuts can be useful for select fingers cracks like Bob and Eric Crack. Good climbing shoes with edging capabilities will reward you on the technical face climbs. Since this area is often less crowded, having a partner familiar with route lengths and approach details will add to a smooth experience.
In summary, Diamond Face is a climbing area that combines accessible approaches, quality rock climbing across a broad difficulty spectrum, and scenic Eastern Sierra charm. With solid routes such as Still Not a Player and Mickey Mantle 2.0 acting as milestones, climbers can expect an engaging and evolving landscape to test their skills. Protecting this place through careful access and respectful land use will ensure Diamond Face remains a cherished destination for years to come.
Approach involves crossing a river via scrambling on rocks, so be prepared for slippery surfaces. The area has lost previous bridge access points, so careful route-finding and caution at the river is necessary. Pack plenty of water and sun protection as shade is limited in the afternoon. Descending involves hiking along rugged and uneven riverbank terrain.
Access requires fording the river by scrambling across a pointed rock - wear approach shoes or sandals you don't mind getting wet.
Avoid parking on roads or overnight camping at trailheads; park off pavement and respect all signage.
Carry out all trash and use provided outhouses to minimize impact on the area.
Start climbs early in the day to take advantage of cooler morning sun since the cliff faces west and heats up by afternoon.
Routes at Diamond Face are mostly sport climbs with solid bolting. A rack of quickdraws is essential. Some cracks, such as Bob and Eric Crack, may require small cams or nuts, so bringing a light trad rack for these is recommended. Shoes with good edging performance will enhance technical climbing.
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