"Kidding Area in the Owens River Gorge presents well-protected, easy-to-moderate climbs perfect for families and beginners. With approachable routes like Lithium Ranger and Cocoa Tuffs, this spot offers steady climbing amid the stark beauty of California's Eastern Sierra."
The Kidding Area in the Owens River Gorge offers a compelling blend of approachable climbing routes and welcoming terrain for those seeking a rewarding day on the rock without overwhelming difficulty. Situated just uphill and to the left of the more heavily trafficked Diamondback area, Kidding Area stands out for its well-protected routes that cater primarily to climbers looking for easier to moderate challenges. From the striking 11-bolt climbs like Lithium Ranger, a steep and airy 5.6, to the versatile 13-bolt Cocoa Tuffs, which covers a range of lower-fifth-class difficulties, this area provides an excellent playground for beginners, families, and anyone sharpening their skills.
Approaches start at the end of the downstream trail off the main road, cutting left at the fork and ascending through a talus field via a switchback trail that leads straight into the heart of the crag. This short but sometimes uneven hike sets the tone for a day spent under open skies at 5,097 feet elevation, where the air is generally dry and sun exposure varies with the seasons. Being mindful of recent access issues is crucial — bridge removals in the area have complicated river crossings because of ongoing disputes involving LADWP; visitors must respect these closures and find alternative crossing paths to preserve future access.
The climbs themselves emphasize fun and engagement over extreme difficulty. Classic routes here include Lithium Ranger (5.6), Clips are for Kids (5.8), Cocoa Tuffs (5.9), and Kidding Aside (5.10a). Each comes with a reliable star rating reflecting solid popularity and quality, making them standout choices for a climbing day. Whether you're leading or top-roping, the variety of trad, face, and slab lines in the lower grades makes Kidding Area accessible to younger climbers and newcomers while still offering enough variation to keep intermediate climbers challenged.
The walls exhibit a bulbous pocketed face on some climbs and steep sections punctuated by crux moves — notably a short 5.10 crux on Kidding Aside — which test foot placement and finger strength in encouraging ways. Anchors tend to be well-maintained bolts, with many climbs featuring bolted protection for secure ascents. Bringing a rack suitable for trad lines is smart, as easy top-rope climbs in the lower fifth class range afford safe practice grounds for gear placements.
Weather in this Eastern Sierra locale swings in predictable patterns with a dry climate that encourages a long climbing season. Peak climbing months fall from spring through late fall, avoiding the snow-laden winters. Shade on the routes varies depending on time of day and season, so early morning or late afternoon sessions can offer respite from intense sunshine, especially during the hotter summer months.
Despite the approachable grades, climbers should be cautious navigating the talus field on the approach and remain vigilant about respecting land-use guidelines, including proper waste disposal and sticking to designated parking areas. The area’s fragile ecosystem benefits greatly from conscientious stewardship, helping ensure that the routes remain clean, safe, and accessible for everyone.
Beyond the rock, Kidding Area’s setting delivers views typical of the Owens River Gorge’s rugged character—granite faces rising sharply over a sparse landscape, punctuated by sagebrush and occasional pinyon pines. It's a quieter alternative within the Gorge, perfect for those who want solid climbing without the bustle of busier sectors. This combination of ease, protection, and natural beauty makes Kidding Area a dependable choice for families, skill-builders, and climbers seeking straightforward but satisfying lines.
With moderate elevation and straightforward approaches, Kidding Area offers excellent introduction routes without sacrificing the thrill of genuine outdoor climbing. Those ready to step up can test the steeper, pocketed faces or enjoy a more casual day top-roping slabs, making this a versatile destination in California’s Eastern Sierra climbing scene.
Watch your footing on the talus field during the approach, especially when carrying gear. Be mindful of the bridge closures, and do not attempt to cross closed sections. Climbers should also be careful on steep pocketed faces with loose rock potential and always descend with caution on slabs to avoid slips.
Respect current bridge closures due to access negotiations; seek alternative crossings safely.
Avoid parking or camping overnight at access points to keep the area welcoming for climbers.
Pack out all trash and use designated outhouses to maintain the fragile environment.
The approach involves some talus and switchbacks—wear sturdy shoes and watch your footing.
Routes here are primarily bolted sport climbs with some trad and face slab top-ropes in the lower fifth-class range. A light rack including cams for easy trad placements and quickdraws for bolted lines is recommended. Bring multiple bouldering pads for the approach and shorter climbs.
Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.