"C'est La Morte is a concise yet demanding trad climb in Eldorado Canyon that tests crack technique and route-finding. Its mix of delicate traverses and sharp finger cracks on sandstone offers an immersive experience with practical protection challenges."
C'est La Morte carves a distinct line through the lower Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon, delivering a concentrated trad climb that tests both technical skill and route-finding savvy. This single-pitch route spreads over 160 feet, beginning just north of a large cement slab adjacent to the river, where worn boulders mark the approach. The first moves demand a cautious traverse through a decayed band of rock with limited protection opportunities, inviting climbers to stay mindful of placements and rope management early on. A standout feature arrives in the form of a massive flake—your first reliable piece of gear—as you move upward and rightward, where judicious use of long runners will ease the inevitable rope drag around the corner.
The climb then proceeds along a finely etched finger crack that bends rightward, opening into a section adorned with two fixed pins. These require extended runners to minimize drag while maintaining security. From there, a dynamic move up and sharp left leads to a two-bolt anchor that crowns the route. Though compact, C'est La Morte demands precise footwork, low body positioning, and patience to navigate the tricky transitions without overstressing the gear.
Eldorado Canyon’s rugged sandstone confers a tactile character to the climb—the stone feels alive beneath your fingers, rough and sun-warmed during warmer months, with occasionally loose sections requiring careful inspection. This route offers an excellent training ground for climbers seeking to refine crack climbing technique on modest vertical terrain while enjoying dramatic views of the river below. The descent is straightforward but not to be underestimated: a delicate 60-meter rappel with a cautious attention to rope drag, or a downclimb from a ledge if your party is confident in their ability.
When planning a day here, consider starting early to avoid the canyon’s afternoon heat as Redgarden Wall’s east-facing aspect quickly heats up in summer. A standard rack with a good selection of RPs and wires suffices for protection, but be prepared for some placements to feel marginal, especially in the rotten band. The river’s presence nearby is a constant companion, occasionally challenging your focus with its steady murmur, reminding you that nature is both a partner and a test on this route.
C'est La Morte’s charm lies not in grandeur or length but in the tight, technical-moving sequences and an intimate connection with the rock that Eldorado Canyon so generously offers. Whether you're a trad climber hungry for steady progression or a visitor soaking in Boulder’s climbing heritage, this route provides a rewarding dose of adventure wrapped in straightforward logistics. Hydration is critical here—carry enough water, and plan for moderate hiking approaches through mixed terrain featuring loose scree and sun-drenched exposed slabs. Footwear with sticky rubber and a sensitive sole will elevate your traction and comfort. Ultimately, this climb challenges your ability to read rock and place pro with confidence, immersing you in the elements while providing a manageable and highly accessible trad experience.
Approach with caution through the rotten band as the rock quality is variable; avoid overweighting marginal placements. The rappel requires meticulous rope management due to potential drag around corners, and downclimbing options demand comfort with exposure and solid footwork.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on Redgarden Wall’s east-facing face.
Check gear placements carefully in the rotten sections before trusting them fully.
Bring a 60m rope for rappelling with cautious rope management due to drag.
Wear sticky-soled shoes to maximize grip on sandstone’s varied textures.
A standard trad rack with RPs and wires is essential; expect tricky placements in the rotten band section and use long runners around fixed pins to minimize rope drag.
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