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C'est La Fin: A Bold Trad Ascent in Eldorado Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
trad
long runouts
multi-pitch
technical crack
runout
Colorado
Eldorado Canyon
Length: 270 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
C'est La Fin
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"C'est La Fin offers a focused trad challenge on Eldorado Canyon’s steep walls, featuring two pitches of sustained 5.9 climbing peppered with technical cruxes and runout sections. This route rewards careful gear management and solid route-finding in an iconic Colorado setting."

C'est La Fin: A Bold Trad Ascent in Eldorado Canyon

C'est La Fin delivers a compelling challenge in the heart of Eldorado Canyon, where sheer rock faces and jagged cracks invite climbers to test their resolve. This two-pitch trad climb, clocking in at roughly 270 feet, strikes a balance between sustained technical sequences and thoughtful route-finding. From the moment your fingers lock into the narrow crack system that defines the first pitch, the climb demands steady attention and measured moves. The rock here is both a partner and a puzzle — grippy yet occasionally brittle, requiring careful placements and a mindful approach to protection.

Starting with an early crux reminiscent of the neighboring C'est La Morte, the first pitch presents a 5.9 difficulty that feels earned rather than forced. The rhythm builds as you ascend, threading through a thin crack interrupted by lost Arrow pitons that mark key positions along the way. These pitons serve as reminders of the route’s history and offer occasional but limited protection points.

As you near the upper section of the first pitch, the climb veers up and right into a dark bulge guarded by an old ring-angle piton positioned just under the overhang. Navigating around this feature tests both technique and composure. A few more moves take you toward the Anthill route’s ramp — an exposed section where confidence in your gear placements and partner trust is crucial. It’s here that the runout is most pronounced, highlighting why precise gear management and route knowledge are essential.

The second pitch continues the theme of thoughtful movement and intermittent protection but poses a greater challenge in navigation. The line lacks clear definition, increasing the chance of wandering onto more difficult or dirty terrain if the correct sequence is missed. With a similar 5.9 rating, it demands both physical endurance and mental focus as you simul-climb past a juniper tree to reach a gear anchor set 20 feet beyond the primary pitch. This extended finish requires awareness but rewards patience with sweeping views and a solid sense of accomplishment.

Protection-wise, C'est La Fin calls for a well-rounded trad rack with an emphasis on extra-long slings to extend placements and manage rope drag effectively. Though the route can be run out, the anchors that are present demand respect and careful use. Experienced trad climbers will appreciate the subtle complexities of gear placements here—tricam and RPs are handy in fill-in spots, but most protection comes from natural features and fixed gear from past parties.

Access to the climb occurs within Eldorado Canyon State Park, a renowned Colorado climbing hub. The approach is straightforward yet requires readiness for the park’s rugged terrain and variable weather conditions. Plan for moderate approach times and bring sturdy footwear suitable for scrambling over talus and gravel. The route’s east-facing aspect catches morning light, making early starts ideal for cooler conditions and optimal friction on the rock surfaces.

In sum, C'est La Fin is an inviting yet serious adventure for trad climbers looking to extend their repertoire in a storied setting. It balances engaging technical sequences with enough runout to keep your senses sharp. With thorough preparation, sound judgment, and a spirit open to both challenge and reward, this climb offers a memorable day high on Eldorado’s iconic walls.

Climber Safety

Approach protection with caution: some pitons are old and spaced widely, leaving long runouts that increase fall potential. The second pitch’s route is not well defined, so missing the correct line can lead to dirtier holds or harder moves. Always verify anchors and be prepared for scrambling during the simul-climb section near the juniper tree.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length270 feet

Local Tips

Start early for cooler morning temperatures and better friction on the east-facing wall.

Bring a rack with long slings—the route’s protection can be spaced and benefits from extended gear.

Pay close attention to the subtle variations in the second pitch’s line to avoid harder terrain or loose rock.

Scout belay positions carefully—opting for a solid anchor below the large juniper can make the simul-climb safer.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on C'est La Fin feels appropriate for climbers comfortable with sustained technical crack climbing and occasional runout challenges. The 'R' suffix signals runout sections that require trustworthy gear placements and a head for exposure. While the cruxes register as solid 5.9 moves, the real difficulty lies in managing risk on the mostly unprotected stretches and parsing the less obvious second pitch route. Compared with other Eldorado 5.9 routes, it leans toward the stiffer side because of these runouts and uncertain line-finding.

Gear Requirements

Expect to carry a standard trad rack augmented with extra-long slings and biners to extend protection. The route requires placing a mix of nuts, cams, and especially RPs and tricams to back up fixed pitons, which are crucial for securing runout sections safely.

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Tags

trad
long runouts
multi-pitch
technical crack
runout
Colorado
Eldorado Canyon