HomeClimbingCave Pitch

Cave Pitch at Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
trad crack
5.8
single pitch
rappel access
exposed scramble
roof climbing
eldorado canyon
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cave Pitch
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cave Pitch offers a straightforward traditional climb in Eldorado Canyon with a crucial role as an access point to larger routes like The Naked Edge. Its moderate 5.8 moves under a broad roof demand attentive gear placement and set up practical rappels for descent."

Cave Pitch at Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon

Carved into the rugged cliffs of Eldorado Canyon, the Cave Pitch stands out less as a full-fledged climbing challenge and more as a crucial waypoint for those threading their way through Colorado’s iconic Redgarden Wall. This single-pitch traditional route offers approximately 120 feet of vertical rock that combines straightforward climbing with a bit of awkward negotiation under a broad roof. Located just below the first pitch of The Naked Edge and neighbors the top of Touch 'N' Go, Cave Pitch presents climbers not only with tangible moves but also vital access to the Upper Ridge and rappel routes down Tower Two.

Approaching the climb from the anchor atop Touch 'N' Go involves an exposed 100 feet of fourth-class scrambling down to the base of the cave formation. The route itself demands a commitment to careful footwork and measured decisions as you navigate an awkward, moderate 5.8 section beneath the large overhang. The initial crack that follows rewards you with solid holds and climbing protection up to 3 inches in size, granting peace of mind but requiring attention to gear placements. The presence of bolts midway reflects a blend of natural and fixed protection, easing the passage above the roof.

The Cave Pitch is, at its heart, a strategic conduit rather than a pure climbing destination. From this feature, climbers can push further upward, traversing toward the Upper Ramp for extended adventures or efficiently rappel back down to the base of Tower Two via a three-pitch descent using bolted anchors. These options make it a versatile element of the Redgarden sector, whether you seek to ascend or exit with minimal fuss.

Eldorado Canyon’s character—steep walls etched with history, pine-scented air stirred by winds—embraces the Cave Pitch with an inviting blend of natural ambiance and practical climbing. The route’s moderate difficulty and accessible length make it a reliable choice for climbers refining technical skills or navigating the greater wall system. Preparing with sturdy footwear, a rack geared for small to medium cams, and an understanding of the descent plan will smooth your experience.

While no flashy summit awaits at the Cave Pitch itself, the surrounding rock pulses with energy as sunlight angles sharply across the wall in the afternoon. Expect a tactile connection to the stone’s texture, with rough edges that reward confident hands and feet. Keep an eye on weather and temperature, as the exposed approach and descent can feel brisk outside peak climbing seasons.

In short, Cave Pitch provides a grounded, functional climbing experience that serves as a gateway in one of Colorado’s premier trad climbing zones. Whether part of a longer route or a standalone climb for skill-building, it’s defined by its straightforward rock and strategic position. Your boots will find purchase in the gritty holds, your rack choices will feel justified, and your gaze will catch glimpses of Eldorado’s famed vistas that remind you why this place remains a destination for climbers across skill levels.

Climber Safety

The approach involves a 100-foot section of exposed fourth-class scrambling; stay focused on footing to avoid slips. The rappel anchors are bolted but always inspect hardware before setting rappels, and manage rope drag carefully on the multi-pitch descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Start from the anchor atop Touch 'N' Go and scramble down about 100 feet of exposed terrain to reach the cave base.

Prepare for an awkward climbing section under the roof that tests balance and footwork around 5.8 difficulty.

Use the bolted rappel stations to descend back to the ground safely via three rappels—double-check anchor integrity before committing.

Time your climb for late morning to afternoon to enjoy sun exposure on the wall without excessive heat.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 grade feels accurate but leans on the awkward side because of the roof section and approach moves. The climbing is not overly taxing physically but demands solid technique and careful gear placements. Compared to other Redgarden routes, Cave Pitch is a modest challenge—more about precision and strategy than raw difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Bring traditional protection up to 3 inches, including cams and nuts, as well as slings for anchors. Fixed bolts offer aid mid-route but rely on solid passive gear for the crack systems.

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Tags

trad crack
5.8
single pitch
rappel access
exposed scramble
roof climbing
eldorado canyon