"Bob and Eric Crack threads a demanding vertical crack on Owens River Gorge’s Diamond Face, blending challenging protection and gritty rock. This one-pitch trad climb calls for precise gear placement and steady hands in a raw, high-desert setting."
Bob and Eric Crack stakes its claim as a defining crack climb within the rugged expanse of Owens River Gorge. A single pitch stretching 100 feet through a striking vertical crack system, this route demands focused technique and a steady eye. The climb's character is rooted in its gritty rock and the subtle tension carried by the occasional loose sections—a reminder that this line respects only careful negotiation. The crack invites fingers and hands to find secure jams, but protection demands attentiveness: small cams in the 0.5 to 3 range anchor your progress, with an essential stock of extra gear in hand and finger sizes to tackle the more delicate placements. The route earns a PG rating due to patches of questionable stone, nudging climbers to move deliberately and avoid any unnecessary falls.
Positioned on the lower face of the Diamond Face wall, the groove splits rock sculpted by millennia of wind and water, framing the climb with deep shadow during morning hours and warming afternoon sun that highlights the rock's texture. Several slots await thoughtful gear placements—hand-size hexes and tricams add bomber reliability where cams hesitate. Although the climb offers no fixed anchor at the top, belayers can tie in from the Mad Cat anchor about fifteen feet to the right, maintaining safety while keeping a clear view on their partner’s ascent.
Approach trails to the base roll through sparse sagebrush and granite talus, requiring 20 minutes of steady hiking from the main parking area in Owens River Gorge. The path is clear but steep in spots, demanding solid footwear and a readiness for loose footing. Once at the base, the climb’s exposed crack looms, daring climbers to test their crack-climbing skills and composure on a route that blends technical climbing with an undeniable element of wildness.
Owens River Gorge itself is a rugged playground, where narrow canyons wind through high desert terrain and high Sierra backcountry beyond. The area is prized for its remote feel yet remains accessible enough for a day trip. Climbers should remember that temperature swings can be sharp, with hot sun heating the rock to a dry warmth in the afternoon but chilly air early and late. Early spring through late fall is the primary window for climbs here, avoiding winter when snow can obscure access and rock conditions deteriorate.
This climb fits those seeking an authentic trad experience—one that demands care but rewards with powerful jams and solid moves on rock that feels alive beneath your fingertips. While not flashy, Bob and Eric Crack offers a tangible connection to the Gorge's hard-edged climbing culture. Its mix of moderate technical difficulty and the need for precise protection make it ideal for climbers ready to push their trad skills in an environment where nature plays by its own rules.
Caution is required due to some loose rock in key zones and the lack of a fixed anchor at the summit. Build your own belay with solid gear or use the nearby Mad Cat anchor with care. Avoid falling onto uncertain placements and keep a controlled pace to maintain security throughout the climb.
Bring a full rack of small cams including doubles in the 0.5 to 1 sizes for reliable placements.
Wear sticky-soled shoes with a good edge for jamming and smearing the polished crack features.
Plan your climb for the afternoon to benefit from the direct warm sun on the route’s face.
Approach path crosses loose talus—use trekking poles or steady footing during the 20-minute hike.
Protection relies primarily on small cams ranging from 0.5 to 3, with extras in the 0.75 to 1 range strongly recommended. Incorporate hand-size hexes and tricams to secure tricky sections. No fixed anchor is present at the top; climbers should bring extra gear to build a solid anchor or lower from the nearby Mad Cat anchor 15 feet right.
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