"Black Death is a gritty, three-pitch trad climb on Long’s Peak that serves as the raw gateway to the famous Obelisk. Expect loose rock, minimal fixed protection, and a demanding alpine approach framed by sweeping mountain vistas."
Rising steeply on the imposing face of Long’s Peak, Black Death offers a gritty initiation to one of Colorado’s most striking alpine climbs—the Obelisk. This three-pitch adventure demands more than just physical skill; it asks for mental grit in a setting where loose rock punctuates the route and nature’s unpredictability is a constant companion. Starting on the same initial pitch as Pervertical Sanctuary, climbers progress upward then veer left toward a distinct chimney about 60 meters from the Broadway, a landmark route on The Diamond. The ground beneath feels alive, as fractured blocks shift subtly underfoot, requiring careful attention and decisive moves. Beyond the chimney, the climb continues straight up for roughly 90 more meters, culminating on a ramp that leads into the famed splitter crack of the Obelisk.
This route is a true test for climbers with a taste for alpine terrain that hasn’t been overly tamed. Expect to encounter extensive "gardening," a mix of removing loose stones and navigating through patches of unstable rock—each pitch soaked in the raw texture of the mountain's geology. Because fixed rappel options are limited, especially with only D7 offering a retreat, the climb effectively ties you in with the Obelisk routes above or neighboring lines, demanding commitment once you start.
Situated in the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park, The Diamond faces east, catching morning light and shedding afternoon heat, which makes early starts essential during the short climbing season. The approach begins at the Longs Peak Ranger Station, threading a rugged, uneven path that gains substantial elevation before reaching the base in about two hours. Here, alpine air sharpens focus and the vast rocky expanse stretches out, daring climbers to test their limits amid soaring cliffs and stark wilderness.
Gear-wise, a standard alpine rack suffices, but expect to rely heavily on precise placements and strong route-finding skills. Loose debris demands vigilance; even steady hands can be challenged by the cliff’s churned-up surfaces. Wearing sturdy, sticky-soled climbing shoes and layering for sudden weather shifts is recommended, as conditions can swing quickly in these high alpine environments. Hydration and pacing are crucial—once on the route, options for quick retreat are few, so come prepared with all essentials.
Black Death isn’t for those who crave polished rock or easy lines. Instead, it rewards climbers with a hands-on connection to the mountain’s raw character, thrilling exposure, and the quiet pulse of untamed wilderness. It’s an alpine experience rooted in challenge and the satisfaction of threading carefully through terrain that tests respect as much as skill.
Expect loose, unstable sections throughout all pitches. Gardening loose blocks is necessary to reduce hazard but must be done cautiously to avoid dislodging rock on teammates below. Absence of reliable rappel anchors means retreat can be difficult; commit fully once started. Seasonal weather changes can drastically affect safety—beware of sudden storms and rapidly cooling temperatures.
Start early to climb in cooler morning temperatures and avoid afternoon weather shifts.
Be ready to clear loose rock carefully—gardening is part of the route’s challenge.
Pack extra water and nutrition; the approach and route are committing with few bailout options.
Check recent weather forecasts—afternoon storms in the Rockies can come on fast and with force.
Carry a standard alpine rack with a strong emphasis on solid placements due to prevalent loose rock and choss. Fixed gear is limited; come prepared to place all pro carefully and avoid overloading fragments. Sticky-soled shoes recommended for variable rock texture.
Upload your photos of Black Death and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.