Climbing the West Face of Long's Peak - Colorado's High Alpine Challenge

Estes Park, Colorado
high altitude
alpine climbing
multi-pitch
trad climbing
moderate difficulty
rockfall hazard
remote
Length: 600 ft
Type: Trad | Alpine
Stars
Pitches
3-4 pitch
Protected Place
Rocky Mountain National Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The West Face of Long's Peak offers climbers a refreshing high alpine alternative to the famed East Diamond. With moderate multi-pitch routes above 13,000 feet and stunning mountaintop views, this remote wall invites adventurers prepared for a challenging approach and serene alpine experience."

Climbing the West Face of Long's Peak - Colorado's High Alpine Challenge

Long's Peak commands attention from climbers across Colorado, instantly evoking the iconic East Face Diamond - a towering alpine marvel. Yet on the mountain’s quieter side, the West Face patiently waits for those who seek a distinctly different mountaineering experience. Rising more than 600 feet above 13,000 feet of elevation, this wall offers crisp, low-angle rock climbs that suit moderate skill levels and provide a refreshing alternative to the technical gauntlet of the Diamond. The West Face delivers solid 3-4 pitch routes mostly in the 5.6 to 5.9 range, perfect for climbers wanting to savor extended alpine outings without the sustained difficulty or exposure of the East Face.

Approaching the West Face is a journey in itself—starting at the Long’s Peak Trailhead, adventurers hike roughly 7 miles gaining 3,500 feet via the well-known Keyhole Route. This trail brings a steady surge of hikers sharing the route and passing directly beneath the face, demanding caution to mitigate rockfall hazards. The best way to transform this climb into a multi-day alpine experience is by camping in the Boulderfield, a move that requires advance reservation to the National Park Service due to limited permits. The remoteness of the West Face makes it feel like a secret kept by the mountain, where opportunity exists for potential first ascents and exploration across the quarter-mile expanse of vertical granite.

The setting immerses you in high-country beauty, where crisp mountain air fills your lungs and panoramic views stretch far beyond the park’s rugged ridges. From the base, scrambling to the routes is required and prudent care is essential—loose rock here can be a dangerous traveler down the slopes. The climbing quality is excellent, and the routes provide engaging moderate challenges that reward you with solitude and serene alpine ambiance rare in Colorado’s busy climbing circles.

Keep in mind, the West Face closes seasonally from mid-February to July 31st to protect returning raptors during nesting season, adding a layer of awareness for climbers planning their trips. Such closures contribute to maintaining the area’s ecological balance while preserving its pristine environment for future generations.

For those keen on classic routes, the Keyhole Route is a staple rated at 3.5 stars by the climbing community, underscoring its enduring appeal. While the West Face has fewer documented routes compared to the East Face, its opportunity lies in its spaciousness and moderate grades, inviting climbers willing to carry their gear a little farther and cherish an alpine style outing that's as invigorating for the body as it is inspiring for the soul.

When planning your climb, be fully prepared with proper alpine gear and a solid understanding of your route. Weather in these high elevations can shift quickly, so pack accordingly and check for closures and conditions beforehand. Bringing sufficient protection for multi-pitch trad climbing is critical, as fixed hardware is sparse in this less-trafficked sector of Long's Peak.

Whether you’re longing to ascend a high alpine wall, enjoy crisp panoramic peaks, or tie into moderate trad pitches with spectacular views, the West Face stands as an underappreciated gem. It demands respect, preparedness, and patience but offers an unrivaled sense of accomplishment wrapped in the vast grandeur of Rocky Mountain National Park.

Climber Safety

Due to heavy hiker traffic on the approach trail beneath the West Face, climbers must take care to avoid dislodging loose rock that could pose serious hazards. The rock is generally solid, but scrambling access involves loose terrain. Seasonal closures to protect nesting raptors restrict climbing from mid-February through July 31; always check current park regulations.

Area Details

TypeTrad | Alpine
Pitches3-4 pitch
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common at high elevation.

Plan for a 7-mile approach with 3,500 feet of gain via the Keyhole Route.

Camp at the Boulderfield with reservations to break up the approach and acclimate.

Exercise extreme caution with rockfall hazard on the trail beneath the face.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The West Face mainly features moderate grades between 5.6 and 5.9, leaning towards approachable alpine trad climbing that feels soft for a high mountain environment. The routes are straightforward with good holds, suited for climbers familiar with multi-pitch basics and acclimated to altitude. Compared to the technical and sustained difficulty of the East Face Diamond, the West Face is less intimidating but demands respect for its remoteness and alpine conditions.

Gear Requirements

Multi-pitch trad routes require a rack of standard protection; the rock quality is excellent but mostly low angle. Expect to use cams and nuts in the 5.6-5.9 range. Fixed gear is minimal. Bring alpine climbing essentials for high elevation and variable weather.

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Tags

high altitude
alpine climbing
multi-pitch
trad climbing
moderate difficulty
rockfall hazard
remote