Long's Peak - Colorado's Pinnacle Adventure for Climbers and Mountaineers

Denver, Colorado
high altitude
mixed routes
big wall
aid climbing
alpine approach
loose rock
lightning risk
rappels
14er
Length: 1800 ft
Type: Alpine
Stars
Pitches
single pitch, multi-pitch, aid climbing
Protected Place
Rocky Mountain National Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Long's Peak towers as the highest summit in Rocky Mountain National Park, offering a diverse playground for hikers, rock climbers, and mixed climbers. Its iconic Diamond and multiple climbing faces provide an immersive alpine experience with serious exposure, challenging routes, and unforgettable scenery."

Long's Peak - Colorado's Pinnacle Adventure for Climbers and Mountaineers

Rising to an imposing 14,256 feet, Long's Peak commands the skyline of Colorado's Front Range as the highest summit in Rocky Mountain National Park. This peak is not just a milestone for 14er hunters but an essential destination for climbers craving big alpine walls, challenging mixed routes, and classic rock lines. From skilled hikers just brushing up on their mountaineering skills to advanced climbers targeting high-end routes and big wall aid climbs, Long's Peak offers something compelling for many skill levels.

Approaching the mountain’s eastern cirque is an adventure in itself, weaving through forested country and grooved granite slabs before the alpine terrain steepens abruptly. The hike in typically extends beyond 5 miles with varying trailheads such as Glacier Gorge, Storm Pass, Boulder Brook, and the Wild Basin entrance providing multiple approaches. Once you arrive, the vastness of the peak unfolds—its massive rock faces divided into distinct climbing sectors, including the legendary Diamond, the more moderate Lower and Upper East Faces, and other notable zones like the Chasm View Wall and Ship's Prow.

The Diamond stands as a vertical icon in North American climbing, offering some of the steepest, purest granite walls in the Rockies. Climbers here will find routes ranging from traditional aid to hard free climbs, but the rock’s notorious loose sections demand vigilance—the mountain holds a reputation for unsettling rockfall, with caution essential on every move.

Among the most acclaimed classics here are Kor's Door (5.9) and Casual Route (5.10a), both cherished for their blend of technical climbing and alpine seriousness. For those seeking more dynamic ascents, routes such as Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a), Yellow Wall (5.11b), and Ariana (5.12a) yield sustained challenges with rewarding exposure. The area does not shy away from high-end difficulties either, with routes like Hearts and Arrows (5.12b) and The Honeymoon is Over (5.13c) pushing climbers into elite territory.

The mountain isn’t simply about vertical gain though; weather often shapes the experience more than route difficulty. Storms can develop unexpectedly behind the peak’s massive bulk, creating severe hazards including sudden temperature drops and lightning. Historical accounts remind climbers of the risks—frostbite and hypothermia have claimed toes and more. Descents test endurance and focus too, with options including the Keyhole route to the west side, multiple rappel stations such as the challenging Chasm View rappels, and technical options like the North Face scramble or Keplinger's Couloir. Planning your retreat is as critical as the ascent, especially under unstable weather conditions.

Access to Long's Peak is straightforward from Denver, located about 70 miles northwest. The common approach is via Colorado Highway 7, known as Peak-to-Peak Highway, leading to a well-established trailhead. Expect a solid journey in whether you’re coming for a day adventure or a multi-day alpine expedition.

Seasonal restrictions also shape climbing here—there are important closures due to raptor nesting between February 15 and July 31. These protect sensitive habitats, especially above Loch Vale and Sky Pond Trail, so climbers should plan accordingly and always check recent status updates from the National Park Service.

Long's Peak combines classic alpine climbing with a variety of technical rock and mixed routes, all set within a stunningly raw and challenging environment. It is a destination where preparation meets opportunity—the rewards are unforgettable views, a sense of accomplishment, and a chapter added to your climbing journey that few summits can match.

Climber Safety

Loose rock is a constant hazard on Long's Peak, with some routes requiring particular caution on rappels where rockfall risk is increased. Sudden storms are common, often caught behind the peak out of view until it's too late. Hypothermia and frostbite have historically posed serious dangers. Always bring proper weather gear, start early, and be prepared for technical descents.

Area Details

TypeAlpine
Pitchessingle pitch, multi-pitch, aid climbing
Length1800 feet

Local Tips

Watch for loose rock throughout the climb—always wear a helmet and stay attentive to hold quality.

Plan your start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms, which develop frequently in summer.

Be aware of seasonal closures for raptor nesting between February and July; check current park advisories.

Allow extra time for descent options like Keyhole or rappels—some routes require technical downclimbing or multiple rappels.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The majority of Long's Peak climbing falls into moderate to very difficult grades from 5.9 up to 5.14. The area's ratings are generally honest, with some routes demanding strong technical and physical skills in a high alpine setting. The presence of aid climbing routes adds variety, while the mixed and alpine nature adds an extra layer of challenge. Compared to other Rocky Mountain alpine crags, Long's holds a reputation for being demanding due to exposure and variable rock conditions.

Gear Requirements

A strong rack with a range of traditional protection is essential for Long's Peak, especially on routes in the Diamond and mixed faces. Bring gear suited for alpine conditions including tri-cams and nuts; rappel anchors are often fixed but loose rock demands prudence, particularly on second and third rappels of Chasm View. Layered clothing and weather protection gear are critical due to unpredictable mountain storms.

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Tags

high altitude
mixed routes
big wall
aid climbing
alpine approach
loose rock
lightning risk
rappels
14er