Climbing The Diamond on Long's Peak - Colorado's Alpine Icon

Estes Park, Colorado
alpine
multi-pitch
trad
exposed
rocky-mountain-national-park
high-elevation
north-chimney
rappel
Length: 900 ft
Type: Alpine
Stars
Pitches
Multi-pitch
Protected Place
Rocky Mountain National Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Diamond on Long's Peak is a towering alpine wall in Colorado offering a high-altitude climbing experience that demands skill and respect. With classic routes steeped in challenge and beauty, this legendary granite face attracts climbers seeking unforgettable adventure in Rocky Mountain National Park."

Climbing The Diamond on Long's Peak - Colorado's Alpine Icon

The Diamond on Long's Peak in Colorado is one of North America's most iconic alpine climbing destinations. Rising sharply on the East Face of Long's, the Diamond presents a breathtaking 14,255-foot profile that challenges climbers with its steep granite walls and a raw alpine atmosphere that demands respect and preparedness. This historic wall draws climbers from all over, offering routes that range from scrambles to some of the most demanding free climbs in the region.

Approaching The Diamond starts with the Long's Peak Trailhead, where well-defined trails lead you into the high country of Rocky Mountain National Park. Once you reach Chasm Lake, you find yourself at the foot of the massif, a perfect base for your ascent or scramble. For those targeting the Diamond itself, the North Chimney—often described as the standard route approach—requires cautious negotiation of loose rock and exposure, demanding climbers move carefully and avoid crowding below other parties. This approach is as much a test of attention and mountain savvy as it is physical ability.

The climbing season typically stretches from mid-July through mid-September when summer conditions offer the safest and driest rock, but even then, it pays to watch the weather closely as alpine storms can arrive suddenly at high elevation. The East Face commands the day with morning to early afternoon sun, so timing your climb for cooler morning starts helps avoid overheating on the granite.

The Diamond hosts several classic climbs that have earned stellar reputations. Routes like Casual Route (5.10a), Forrest Finish (5.10c), and Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a) offer challenging but rewarding climbs, while harder lines such as Hearts and Arrows (5.12b) and Full Dunn-Westbay (5.14) attract climbers aiming to push their limits. Each climb presents a unique piece of the Diamond’s rugged character, with sharp cracks, technical face climbing, and exposed positions that make every move critical.

Protection on these routes generally requires solid trad skills, with climbers using cams, nuts, and occasionally fixed bolts for rappels from the large detached block known as the Chasm View anchor. The rock quality is typically sound but loose rock is a known hazard on approach and some climbing sections, so vigilance is essential.

Because the Diamond sits within Rocky Mountain National Park, climbers must respect seasonal wildlife closures designed to protect nesting raptors. These restrictions, active primarily between mid-February and the end of July, limit off-trail travel in certain areas of the park, so planning climbs outside these times or following closures closely is important to preserve this fragile environment and avoid fines.

Descent from the Diamond involves carefully negotiated rappels from bolts in the Chasm View area, or a long downclimb and hike back to the trailhead. The rappel route demands solid rope skills and attention to anchors, as alpine rappel stations can sometimes face weather-related wear.

For those who visit, the experience of climbing here is far more than a physical challenge. The climb connects you viscerally to a storied alpine landscape with panoramic views sweeping out across the Rockies, above tree line, where each breath is thin and every step matters. The Diamond remains a profound test of mountain skills and endurance, so climbers are urged to approach with care, preparation, and a willingness to embrace whatever conditions the mountain offers.

Climber Safety

The North Chimney approach involves loose rock and exposed 4th and 5th class terrain. Move carefully and avoid being beneath other parties to minimize rockfall risk. Seasonal nesting closures affect access—adhere strictly to closure zones to protect wildlife and avoid penalties.

Area Details

TypeAlpine
PitchesMulti-pitch
Length900 feet

Local Tips

Climb on weekdays to avoid crowding and reduce impact on the route.

Avoid Field's Chimney; the North Chimney route is less obvious but the standard approach.

Be extra cautious of loose rock on the North Chimney approach, never climb directly below other parties.

Check Rocky Mountain National Park's raptor closure dates before planning your trip.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The Diamond's routes start around 5.10a and reach up to 5.14, offering a wide spread of challenges for climbers. The ratings are generally accurate with some routes feeling stiff due to the sustained nature of alpine climbing and exposure to high altitude. Compared to nearby alpine areas, difficulty levels here are on par but the approach and exposure add an extra dimension of seriousness.

Gear Requirements

Climbers should prepare for traditional alpine rack with cams and nuts for protection. Fixed anchors for rappels are located on a prominent rectangular block at Chasm View. Being skilled in managing loose rock on the North Chimney approach is critical. Seasonal closures to protect nesting raptors must be strictly observed.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

alpine
multi-pitch
trad
exposed
rocky-mountain-national-park
high-elevation
north-chimney
rappel