Lower East Face - Long's Peak Colorado Climbing Guide

Estes Park, Colorado
mixed climbing
alpine approach
rockfall hazard
shaded afternoon
multi-pitch
trad
ice climbing
Length: 1000+ ft
Type: Mixed
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
Rocky Mountain National Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Lower East Face of Long’s Peak offers climbers a blend of classic alpine rock and formidable mixed climbs within Rocky Mountain National Park. From gritty approach hikes to demanding ice pitches, this legendary face challenges with opportunity and beauty amid Colorado’s high alpine environment."

Lower East Face - Long's Peak Colorado Climbing Guide

Rising sharply at 13,500 feet within the iconic Long’s Peak massif, the Lower East Face stands as a gateway to some of Colorado's most stirring alpine adventures. This broad, less-than-vertical band of rock guards the upper walls—including the renowned Diamond—offering a varied playground of routes that have long drawn climbers eager to test their skills in the shadow of this towering sentinel.

Unlike the vertical jaws above, this stretch presents a rugged but approachable terrain, shifting seamlessly between rock and ice depending on the season. Historically a stage for memorable exploits in the Front Range climbing scene, the Lower East Face now often serves as an evocative warm-up or contingency option during warmer months. But come fall or winter, it morphs into a prime arena for ice and mixed climbing, rewarding those prepared for the alpine challenge with stiff grades and dynamic route options.

The climbing experience here is grounded first in the approach. Most adventurers start at the Long’s Peak trailhead, embarking on a steady 4.5 mile trek to Chasm Lake before moving onward to the rock. Along this journey, the route crosses Mill’s Glacier, where the snow conditions can vary — from soft powder to hard, wind-hardened ice. An ice axe is often recommended, especially in colder months, to navigate safely across this stretch.

Once at the base, climbers find several classic and compelling climbs, including Alexander's Chimney (rated 5.5 with mixed ice M4), Kor’s Dor (5.9), Malander’s Passage (5.8+), and Stettner’s Ledges (5.7+). For those hunting harder challenges, Diagonal Direct and The Diagonal super direct lines push into the 5.11 range, demanding precise technique and commitment. The winter mixed lines—Smear of Fear (M6), Wrecking Ball (M6), Morning Dew (M7), and Crazy Train (M6)—turn this face into a dynamic playground where rock and ice intertwine.

The easterly aspect of the face means the wall often slips into shade by early afternoon in the summer, lending relief from the sun’s intensity but also shortening viable climbing hours. Winter conditions further limit sun exposure, with only the upper and northern reaches catching light.

Climbers must remain vigilant for objective hazards—rockfall and icefall pose intermittent threats due to the nature of the terrain and seasonal freeze-thaw cycles. The area’s environment demands respect and careful route selection, particularly during fluctuating weather.

The National Park enforces seasonal closures from mid-February through July 31 to protect nesting raptors, primarily affecting cathedral wall areas and those above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail. It's critical to check the latest regulations before planning an outing here, as these closures can shift with wildlife activity.

Descending climbers typically retrace their steps down the approach trail. There are no established rappels directly on the Lower East Face, so safe downclimbing and sound judgment on variable ice and mixed terrain become essential skills.

In summary, Lower East Face combines Colorado’s classic alpine essence with a spectrum of climbing challenges that range from moderate rock routes to sharp, demanding mixed lines. Its setting within Rocky Mountain National Park ensures that climbers are surrounded by pristine wilderness and dramatic mountain vistas. Whether you come for the enduring classics like Alexander’s Chimney or to chase winter ice routes, this face offers a compelling experience balanced between adventure and alpine pragmatism.

Climber Safety

Be aware of objective dangers including rock and ice fall, especially during thaw cycles and after storms. The approach snowfield (Mill’s Glacier) can be treacherous and may require careful navigation with an ice axe and crampons depending on conditions.

Area Details

TypeMixed
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length1000+ feet

Local Tips

Start early in summer to avoid afternoon shade that sets in around 1 pm.

Bring an ice axe for the Mill's Glacier crossing, especially in early or late season.

Check Rocky Mountain National Park raptor closures before planning your trip (Feb 15-July 31 seasonal closures may apply).

Be prepared for objective hazards like rock and ice fall, particularly in fluctuating weather.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The routes on the Lower East Face reflect a diverse range of challenges, from moderate 5.5 trad climbs with mixed sections to demanding 5.11 rock lines and M7 ice moves. The grades generally feel consistent with typical Front Range alpine standards — the technical ice routes are serious and not for beginners, whereas the trad climbs offer moderate but sustained challenges. Compared to other RMNP climbs like the Diamond or Keyhole Route, expect harder ice conditions and more variable terrain here.

Gear Requirements

Climbers should prepare for a high alpine approach including a 4.5 mile hike to Chasm Lake and a glacier crossing (Mill's Glacier) where an ice axe is often useful. Routes here span rock and mixed terrain, requiring protection for trad rock climbing and ice gear for winter conditions.

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Tags

mixed climbing
alpine approach
rockfall hazard
shaded afternoon
multi-pitch
trad
ice climbing