"Upper East Face in Colorado’s Long's Peak area offers climbers a rugged alpine adventure with varied routes, from moderate pitches to mixed snow climbs. Accessed by a 4.5-mile approach and less frequented than nearby sectors, it delivers solitude and challenge amid stunning high country."
Rising sharply above the familiar Lower East Face, Colorado’s Upper East Face offers climbers an off-the-beaten-path alpine adventure within the iconic Long's Peak area of Rocky Mountain National Park. The face itself presents a rugged, fragmented facade that stretches east to northeast—depending on your exact position on the wall—rewarding those who dare with varied routes that combine technical climbing with high alpine exposure. This section has quieter air, often bypassed by crowds, promising a more solitary experience amid the high-altitude wilderness.
Approaching the Upper East Face demands commitment. Most climbers start at the Long’s Area trailhead and trek 4.5 miles along the well-maintained path to Chasm Lake. From there, the final approach to the base of this face involves route choices such as using passages through the Lower East Face, or via other options like Lamb’s Slide or Flying Dutchman. Because of the length and technical nature of this journey, expect to spend nearly a full day to reach and climb here, so plan carefully for changing weather and navigation challenges.
The climbing here ranges from moderate to somewhat challenging, with popular routes like Zumie's Thumb graded 5.9, offering solid, enjoyable pitches that test both technique and stamina. Lesser known but worthy of note are Teeter Totter Pillar (5.8), and The Window—an interesting climb either as a 5.7 or mixed snow and ice climb at M6 difficulty depending on conditions. For those seeking easier terrain, Kiener's Route (5.3) and Notch Couloir’s easy snow offer alternative access and less intense challenges, adding variety to your climbing experience. This spot feels like a waiting canvas for exploration, with plenty of room for route-finding and first ascents for those willing to carefully scout the fractured rock.
Classic routes such as The Beaver (5.5), Zumie's Thumb (5.9), and Kor's S'mores (5.10) highlight the area's range. These climbs enjoy steady acclaim for their engagement and scenic setting, earning notable praise from climbers who appreciate solid alpine routes far from crowded corridors. While the rock type isn't explicitly detailed here, the alpine environment at about 14,000 feet elevation means climbers should be prepared for rugged granite and variable conditions.
Timing your climb is crucial because seasonal closures protect nesting raptors from mid-February through July 31. These measures limit off-trail access above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail, so check the most current Rocky Mountain National Park updates before heading out. Weather in this high mountain environment is famously unpredictable, with afternoon storms common in summer months. Early spring and late summer offer the best weather windows, but always be ready for sudden cold snaps or snow.
The Upper East Face truly shines for climbers who thrive on its combination of remoteness, moderate technical challenge, and the spectacular alpine setting of RMNP. After the climb, descents typically rely on downclimbing or carefully retracing your approach—rope rappels are not usually the standard here, so route-finding downhill demands attention. Good footwear, reliable navigation tools, and layered clothing suitable for swiftly changing mountain climates are essential.
Planning your gear around trad climbing will serve you well here, as fixed protection is limited and the rock’s fractured nature calls for a sturdy rack with cams, nuts, and possibly alpine draws for anchors. Tri-cams can be an asset in irregular cracks and fissures. Given the high elevation and exposure, bring sun protection, hydration, and be ready for an alpine endurance day. With all these pieces, the Upper East Face holds the promise of an immersive mountain climbing experience, blending landscape beauty with real alpine challenge.
Approach with caution—this area’s fractured rock demands careful protection placement and attention to loose rock hazards. Seasonal closures for nesting raptors restrict off-trail travel; scrambling routes can be exposed and stamina-intensive. Weather can change rapidly at 14,000 feet elevation, so be prepared for sudden storms and cold conditions.
Start early from Long's Area trailhead to maximize daylight and avoid afternoon storms.
Check RMNP seasonal closures for raptor nesting—off-trail travel is restricted mid-Feb to end of July.
Prepare for a long approach with variable terrain—trail quality varies after Chasm Lake.
Bring layers for rapid weather shifts and carry navigation aids as route-finding can be tricky.
Expect to bring a full trad rack with cams, nuts, and tri-cams recommended for protecting fractured alpine cracks. Mixed climbing protection may be needed on The Window if attempting the M6 variant.
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