"Big Boy offers a focused 35-foot sport climb on a sharp arete in Colorado's Clay Creek Crag. With solid bolts and a clean line, this route suits climbers seeking an efficient, well-protected pitch with rewarding mountain views."
Big Boy is a no-nonsense sport climb hugging the sharp arete at Clay Creek Crag, offering a compact but satisfying challenge in the Telluride-Norwood region of Colorado. This single-pitch route stretches over 35 feet of engaging vertical terrain, with three well-placed bolts guiding your moves. The climb begins on easier rock, allowing you to edge left of the bolt line for a few moves before you settle into the arete itself, where the real character emerges. The rock here presents solid texture with moderate features, demanding careful footwork and steady balance rather than raw power.
From the base, the arete calls like a narrow spine rising into the sky, daring you to test your finesse and route reading. Clay Creek Crag sits at 7,900 feet, surrounded by clean air and open skies, where pine-framed ridge lines stand watch. The approach involves a short hike through mixed terrain, combining loose dirt with patches of scrub and evergreen, giving just enough wilderness to feel off the beaten path without an exhausting trek. Expect roughly 15 minutes on foot from the closest parking spot to the base.
Protection is straightforward along Big Boy. Three bolts provide reliable clipping points leading up to a two-bolt anchor, creating a neat safety framework that suits both confident newcomers to sport climbing and seasoned climbers looking to enjoy a quick pitch. The spacing between bolts is generous but never feels uncomfortably runout, although the section above the last bolt and before the anchors opens up slightly, requiring attention and calm movement. The rock on this upper piece softens in angle and difficulty, allowing an easier finish with less risk.
If you're aiming for a late afternoon ascent, prepare for sun bleeding over the ridge and warming the crag. The south-facing aspect means summer days can heat the rock, so an early climb in cooler conditions or a spring outing might enhance grip and comfort. Climbing Big Boy also offers plenty of eye candy: the surrounding vistas sweep across the San Juan Mountains, showcasing rugged peaks and deep valleys that reward every step back from the wall.
Whether you come for a technical warm-up or a quick dose of sport climbing with a view, Big Boy provides a clear-cut, accessible route in a scenic Colorado setting. Plan for sturdy shoes with sticky soles, bring a light rack to supplement the three bolts if desired, and pack enough water for the dry mountain air. With the combination of solid protection, manageable length, and a distinct arete profile, this climb delivers straightforward fun with practical appeal.
Watch your step on the approach, as loose scree patches can catch you by surprise. While the bolts are solid, the runout between the final bolt and anchors should not be underestimated, especially if you're climbing above your comfort zone. Be prepared for sun exposure on the south-facing wall during warmer months – bring sunscreen and stay hydrated.
Approach the crag early in the day to avoid the midday sun heating the south-facing wall.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber to manage the textured yet delicate rock on the arete.
Carry at least 2 liters of water; the dry mountain air can dehydrate faster than expected.
Stay cautious above the last bolt where protection thins out before reaching the anchor.
This route is secured by three bolts spaced along the line leading to a solid two-bolt anchor. The bolt placements provide dependable protection, though the section above the final bolt to the anchor is a bit runout on easier terrain. No additional gear is necessary but a light rack can add confidence.
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