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Baggins' Blunt Arete: An Unconventional Trad Route on North Table Mountain

Golden, Colorado United States
tight crack
technical gear
single pitch
north table mountain
confined line
directional anchors
Length: 45 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Baggins' Blunt Arete
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A narrow, technical single-pitch trad climb on North Table Mountain that challenges with precise gear placements and a tight crack line. Best suited for climbers seeking a quieter, less-traveled alternative to the area's classic routes."

Baggins' Blunt Arete: An Unconventional Trad Route on North Table Mountain

Baggins' Blunt Arete is a compact yet captivating climb, carved sharply into the Brown Cloud Rocks of North Table Mountain near Golden, Colorado. This single-pitch trad route stands out as a tight, squeezed line that practically dares seasoned climbers to take it on. It’s not a playground for beginners but rather a subtle rebel for those familiar with the classic North Table classics—the Hart brothers, Berk brothers, Trout, Nelson, and Wright routes all linger nearby, suggesting this route's roots extend back to the area’s climbing pioneers.

The arete itself challenges with a narrow profile that demands precise footwork and careful placement. As you make your way up, the rock feels alive under your fingers, offering small cracks that require a delicate touch and strategic gear choices. The crux rests near the top where the crack pinches just enough to bite, testing your resolve and technique right before the final ledge. For those looking to avoid the chimney running right of the feature, the climb gains an edge of intrigue and complexity.

Protection is straightforward but focused—blue Aliens through #1 Camalots fit the bill, with an extra #1 or #2 Camalot helping secure a directional anchor at the top. Many climbers choose to approach this route by first climbing nearby lines like Virus or Variation of the Virus, then establishing a top-rope from their anchors to familiarise themselves before pushing the lead. It’s a smart way to build confidence on this tighter line.

The approach to the climb delivers the rugged feel of North Table Mountain’s volcanic basalt formations, with crisp air and panoramic views of the rolling foothills and the city of Golden below. The terrain holds a raw, less-traveled atmosphere that rewards those who’ve done the more prominent routes and crave something a bit off the beaten path.

Baggins' Blunt Arete isn’t about flashy moves or overhanging drama. Instead, it’s a precise, technical dance on narrow holds, close to the rock and the mountain’s pulse. In the fading light of day, the arete seems almost alive, daring climbers to blend patience with skill. If your tick list includes classic North Table lines, this route represents an intriguing deviation, a small gem cloaked in familiar terrain yet demanding its own respect.

Packing for the climb requires attention to small cams and directional anchor pieces, plus sturdy shoes for the subtle edges and cracks. Water and layered clothing are wise given the mountain’s unpredictable weather and fluctuating afternoon shade. Best tackled in spring through early fall, mornings offer ideal light and warmth on the face, while afternoons bring cooling shade and a welcome respite from the sun.

Baggins' Blunt Arete invites climbers to explore beyond the usual trails and lines, pushing focus and finesse. It’s a brief but rewarding challenge, perfect for those wanting to add a touch of the unusual to their North Table adventures.

Climber Safety

Watch for narrow placements near the crux as small cams must be seated carefully to avoid pulls. The rock is solid basalt but with some sharp edges near the top. Avoid the chimney on the right, which can become pinch-points or complicate the climb. Use slings on top anchors to reduce rope drag for a clean toprope if desired.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Approach via established routes like Virus or Variation of the Virus for easier top-rope setup.

Carry small cams and practice precise placements to protect the tight crack line.

Start early in the day to catch sun on the face and avoid afternoon chill.

Avoid the chimney on the right to increase the route's challenge and interest.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels accurate with the crux positioned near the top where the narrow crack demands focused technique. The grade isn’t inflated; it provides a measured challenge especially for climbers familiar with North Table’s trad style, offering a somewhat stiff finish compared to the approach routes. While not physically demanding, the thin line requires precision, making it a satisfying step beyond the area's easier climbs.

Gear Requirements

Essential gear includes cams from blue Aliens up to #1 Camalot, with an extra #1 or #2 Camalot recommended for directional anchors at the top. Slings and a toprope from adjacent anchors add safety for first-timers.

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Tags

tight crack
technical gear
single pitch
north table mountain
confined line
directional anchors