HomeClimbingAny Way You Slice It

Any Way You Slice It: A Solid Trad Challenge at Millennium Crag

Boulder, Colorado United States
hand crack
single-pitch
crux overhang
protected crack
trad climbing
eldorado canyon
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Any Way You Slice It
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A clean, crisp trad route on a distinctive freestanding tower in Eldorado Canyon. Featuring a compelling handcrack crux, it offers climbers a solid 5.9 challenge with accessible protection and a straightforward descent."

Any Way You Slice It: A Solid Trad Challenge at Millennium Crag

Any Way You Slice It offers a compelling single-pitch trad experience set on a striking freestanding tower within Eldorado Canyon State Park, just outside Boulder, Colorado. This 80-foot route invites climbers to navigate a narrow crack system that feels like sliding a hand between two massive slices of bread. The climb hinges on a memorable crux—a roughly 20-foot overhung section along the edge of a broad flake—where precise jamming and steady technique are essential.

The rock here is mostly clean, with minimal dirt or lichen interfering, making protection placement straightforward and reassuring. Climbers will find a reliable crack that accepts a full range of standard nuts and cams up to 3 inches, allowing for confident gear placement even for those pushing the 5.9 grade. The route sits about 100 meters beyond the prominent Curiosity slab, easily identifiable as a big plate of stone rising roughly 7 meters from the ground, with a corner to the left and the main crack hugging its right edge.

Approach is a pleasant stroll along the cliff band amidst the canyon’s rugged walls, with moderate bouldering scattered nearby. After topping out, the descent requires careful but manageable scrambling to the southwest for roughly 30 meters, followed by a controlled walk down lower-angle terrain. This transition is important to note, as it avoids the steep cliff sections and leads back to your gear without complication.

This climb rewards those with a taste for moderate technical trad climbing set in one of Colorado’s historic climbing areas. While the excitement is grounded in the crack’s handjam-friendly features and the clear line it carves, the route also calls for thoughtful protection strategy and attention to detail. It’s an excellent choice for climbers refining their crack climbing skills and looking for a memorable pitch away from overcrowded favorites.

Seasonal conditions lean toward spring through fall, with the south-facing wall warming comfortably on cooler days but presenting some challenge midday in peak summer due to direct sun exposure. The rock’s texture and natural features seem to hold steady in dry weather, but avoid attempting this route during or shortly after rain, as moisture can reduce friction at the crux and make placements less secure.

Local insights suggest early morning starts for cooler temperatures and less crowding. Footwear with a solid edging capability paired with gloves or tape for crack protection enhances comfort and grip. Hydration remains key, as the approach and descent expose you to the canyon’s streaks of sun and wind.

Any Way You Slice It combines a striking natural feature and solid trad fundamentals in an accessible yet satisfying climb. Whether you're honing your crack proficiency or eager to explore the storied Eldorado cliffs, this route delivers a balanced dose of adventure and technical challenge, wrapped in the unmistakable character of Boulder’s legendary climbing scene.

Climber Safety

The descent involves scrambling southwest on a short cliff band before a more relaxed walk-off. Pay attention here—while the scramble is manageable, loose rocks and uneven footing require cautious movement, especially with tired legs.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid direct midday sun on the south-facing wall.

Use gloves or tape to protect hands during the sustained hand crack.

Approach via the cliff band 100 meters past Curiosity slab for an easy route-finding.

Scramble carefully southwest after the climb to a safe descent path avoiding steep drops.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade here feels in line with the technical demands: straightforward jams and solid protection keep it accessible, but the 20-foot overhung crux demands focus and precise footwork. Compared to other local 5.9s, this pitch offers a slightly more sustained crack experience, rewarding climbers comfortable with moderate overhang and gear placement.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard rack of nuts and cams up to 3 inches. Protection placements are solid and require minimal cleaning; the crack accepts well-formed jams and gear fairly reliably through the overhung crux section.

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Tags

hand crack
single-pitch
crux overhang
protected crack
trad climbing
eldorado canyon