HomeClimbingAnthill/Redguard Traverse

Anthill Redguard Traverse: A Boulder Classic with Subtle Challenges

Boulder, Colorado United States
trad
single pitch
roof crux
slabby
Eldorado Canyon
desert sandstone
small cams
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Anthill/Redguard Traverse
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Anthill Redguard Traverse carves a memorable path along Eldorado Canyon’s Redgarden Wall, blending accessible trad moves with a punchy crux roof. This photogenic, single-pitch traverse offers a fresh take for climbers who’ve explored Eldorado’s well-trodden classics."

Anthill Redguard Traverse: A Boulder Classic with Subtle Challenges

The Anthill Redguard Traverse offers a compact yet compelling trad climbing experience along Eldorado Canyon's famed Redgarden Wall. This one-pitch route winds its way across a striking maroon band, presenting climbers with a blend of easy movement and a crux that demands attention. Starting from the belay in the designated location, the climb begins by following this distinctive band through a bulge that rewards steady feet and confident hand placements. Though the belayer loses sight amid the traverse, the climbing remains straightforward, allowing focus on balance and flow.

Approaching the route’s climax, a small roof stands as the defining obstacle—the crux that tests technique over brute strength. Protection is reliable both below and above this feature, thanks to a well-spaced selection of small to medium cams. Beyond the roof, a slick slabby section requires cautious footwork before the route joins with the Redguard line. From here, a short stretch of climbing leads to the final belay station, anchored by a pin.

While this route may not appear in the main guidebooks and isn't confirmed as a first ascent, its position on the Redgarden Wall offers climbers a fresh perspective on a popular area. The surroundings are photogenic, with Eldorado's signature walls and desert light shaping the backdrop. For those who’ve ticked off the area's classic routes, the Anthill Redguard Traverse provides an inviting option to explore subtle variations and enjoy the canyon’s character from a new angle.

Protection demands a modest rack focused on smaller cams, emphasizing careful gear placement to negotiate the traverse and crux safely. The rock here holds typical Eldorado quality—solid sandstone with occasional slick patches — so paying attention to footholds is critical. Evening and morning sessions work well to avoid the harsher midday sun, as the wall’s southwest aspect basks in warmth but can become unforgiving during peak heat.

Access is straightforward, accessible via Eldorado Canyon State Park’s established approach trails, with minimal scrambling required to reach the base. This makes the route suitable for climbers looking for a concise trad challenge with straightforward logistics. The solitude found on the traverse contrasts with busier nearby climbs, making it a worthwhile escape for those seeking a quieter moment on these famous cliffs.

Preparation tips include bringing plenty of water, given the canyon’s exposed terrain, and sturdy climbing shoes with reliable edging capability to handle the crux’s slab sections. As always, climbers should double-check their anchor setups and communicate clearly with partners since the traverse moves out of direct sight. With these considerations, Anthill Redguard Traverse combines approachable climbing with enough subtle demands to engage both intermediate and advanced trad climbers exploring Eldorado's rugged charm.

Climber Safety

Protection is straightforward but demands attention; the traversing moves can leave the leader out of sight of the belayer, so clear communication and solid anchors are vital. Slabby sections near the crux might be slick, especially if moisture is present.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday sun; southwest-facing wall heats up quickly.

Double-check your anchor before the traverse; communication is key as you move out of sight.

Bring shoes with good edging capability for the slick slab section near the top.

Water is crucial — Eldorado’s exposed terrain offers limited shade and high sun exposure.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8- PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8- PG13 rating reflects a mostly moderate effort with a distinct crux at a small roof, where climbers face a slick slab section that requires precise footwork. The grade feels fairly consistent with other Eldorado trad routes, offering a manageable challenge for those comfortable with traditional gear and single-pitch adventures.

Gear Requirements

A concise set of small to medium cams is essential to protect the traverse and roof crux, with placements available both below and above the small roof.

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Tags

trad
single pitch
roof crux
slabby
Eldorado Canyon
desert sandstone
small cams