HomeClimbingAnthill Direct

Anthill Direct at Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
roof crux
multi-pitch
runout
sandstone
trad assurance
layback
slab descent
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Anthill Direct
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Anthill Direct is a solid trad route tucked away on Eldorado Canyon’s Redgarden Wall. It offers five pitches of textured sandstone climbing with memorable roof cruxes and a mixture of runout moves and well-protected sequences, perfect for climbers seeking a measured but rewarding challenge."

Anthill Direct at Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon

Anthill Direct stands out as a substantial, less-traveled trad climb that offers steady, varied movement across Eldorado Canyon's rugged Redgarden Wall. This five-pitch route rewards climbers willing to invest time and focus with quality rock and engaging sequences, set against a backdrop of Colorado’s dramatic sandstone cliffs. The climb demands attention, balancing shorter technical cruxes with longer stretches where protection thins, challenging both gear placement skills and mental grit.

Starting near the popular Touch 'N' Go pitch, Anthill Direct often surprises with its subtle complexity and character. The first pitch tends to split opinion; some find the original start worth the effort for its cleaner moves and easier pro, while others favor Touch 'N' Go for a more straightforward launch. As you ascend, expect a blend of hands-on cracks, pockets, and feature-rich roofs that push you through a varied range of 5.6 to 5.9- moves. Particularly on pitches two and five, you’ll encounter roof sections that require precise body positioning and confident laybacking, protected by solid gear placements that invite trust.

The rock itself tells its own story: coarse sandstone that demands sticky shoes and controlled movement. The second pitch, with a short but powerful 5.8- roof, breaks away from a rotten ledge and sets the tone for the route’s balance of exposure and security. The crux on pitch five is gratifying yet concise, moving through a roof-turned-dihedral with well-placed pro encouraging commitment on the layback moves.

Approach conditions are straightforward but should not be underestimated. Navigating to the base involves a moderate hike along Eldorado’s busy corridors, with GPS coordinates available to pinpoint your starting point. Once on the route, descending requires care—a commanding fourth-class slab to the northeast leads to a cairn and a gully that funnels back to the trailhead. Familiarity with this exit path avoids sticky situations and saves energy after the climb’s technical demands.

Preparation is key: a standard trad rack covers most needed protection with an emphasis on smaller cams and a few larger pieces for the roof sections. Bring reliable footwear for optimal friction on slabby sections and the slab descent. Timing your climb around early morning to mid-day ensures pleasant sun exposure on the wall while avoiding late afternoon’s potential for wind or dropping temperatures.

Ultimately, Anthill Direct offers an authentic Eldorado experience — not the busiest route, but one that connects you to the canyon’s granite grit and climbing tradition with a mix of runout sections and secure roof cruxes. Whether you’re honing your trad game or looking for a solid multi-pitch challenge outside the classic crowd, this climb delivers a satisfying blend of adventure and skill refinement.

Climber Safety

Watch your feet on the exposed slab descent; the fourth-class terrain requires steady footing and route-finding attention. The rotten ledge on pitch two demands cautious movement, and while most of the route is well protected, the occasional runout calls for confident gear placements and mindfulness of rope management.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length feet

Local Tips

Consider starting on the original first pitch for cleaner moves and easier protection instead of Touch 'N' Go.

Plan your climb in the morning to mid-day to maximize warmth and avoid afternoon winds on the wall.

Descend carefully via the northeast slab and follow cairns into the fourth-class gully to avoid scrambling hazards.

Bring a full trad rack with emphasis on small to mid-size cams for cracks and protection at roof cruxes.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9- R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating reflects a snug roof crux that feels more demanding than the overall runout 5.6 sections. The route combines well-protected technical pitches with longer sections where solid seconding skills are important, making the grade a bit stiffer than the number alone suggests. Climbers familiar with Eldorado’s sandstone will find this comparable to routes like Touch 'N' Go but with added roof challenges.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack is essential, focusing on a full range of cams to protect varied crack sizes. Roof sections offer solid protection but require confident placements and some larger pieces. Be sure to have sticky shoes for friction slabs and roof negotiation.

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Tags

roof crux
multi-pitch
runout
sandstone
trad assurance
layback
slab descent