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Yoga Man - A Compact Challenge on McIntyre Creek

Whitehorse, Canada
trad gear
single pitch
crux moves
flake protection
lay-back crack
Yukon climbing
Length: 49 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Yoga Man
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Yoga Man delivers a compact but physically demanding trad climb in Yukon Territory. With two distinct cruxes framing a route that rewards precise gear placement and confident movement, it’s a must for climbers ready to push their limits amid raw northern landscapes."

Yoga Man - A Compact Challenge on McIntyre Creek

Yoga Man offers a concentrated burst of technical climbing set against the rugged backdrop of McIntyre Creek in Yukon Territory. This short, intense single-pitch trad route demands precision and mental focus from the first move to the final crux. From the outset, climbers are greeted with a demanding lip, requiring a thoughtful sequence: a firm right hand grasp on the ledge, a deliberate foot placement just over the edge, and a surprisingly secure left-hand hold that seems separated from the rock but holds steady under pressure. Beyond this initial hurdle, the climb transitions to a rightward and upward trajectory toward a massive flake, ideal for solid protection placements on the left. The route then veers left into a lay-back crack that welcomes good gear, providing a measured rhythm before delivering the ultimate test—a physically and mentally challenging move over the upper lip involving a hidden crimp that will push your endurance and commitment.

Protection is straightforward, starting with two bolts at the beginning to ease initial gear placements before moving to standard trad protection up to 1 inch. The recommended rack includes BD C4 cams ranging from 0.3 to 0.75, ensuring adequate coverage for the wide crack and flake features. Once perched on the anchors at the top, climbers can take a moment to absorb the northern wilderness sprawling around them—an expansive reminder of the remote and unrefined terrain.

Accessing Yoga Man is a crisp hike up from McIntyre Creek with a trail that skirts mixed forest and open rock slabs, taking roughly 30 minutes on well-marked paths. The latitude means cool temperatures prevail much of the year, so layering and quick-drying clothing are essential. Mornings bring calm winds and soft filtered light perfect for detailed route inspection, while afternoons can deliver sudden weather shifts—plan accordingly.

This climb suits experienced trad climbers comfortable with sustained technical moves and who appreciate the mental game of managing tricky gear placements alongside physical challenges. Though the pitch is compact at 49 feet, the intensity and quality of movements make it a memorable test against a stark northern landscape. Whether ticking off a Yukon tick or seeking a focused crux experience, Yoga Man demands respect and offers a rewarding climb that balances skill, gear smarts, and adventurous spirit.

Climber Safety

The climb begins directly over a ledge requiring clean and confident moves—slips here can be serious. Protection is generally reliable, but attention must be paid to gear placements in the large flake and crack to avoid insecure pieces. Weather can shift quickly in the Yukon, so be prepared for cold and damp conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length49 feet

Local Tips

Approach early for stable weather and better route visibility.

Ensure your trad rack includes smaller cams as the crack tightens near the lip.

Wear shoes with precise edging capability for the crux moves.

Double-check anchor stability before the descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating reflects both technical difficulty and the mental demand of sustained edging and lay-back sequences. The rating feels fair but leans towards stiff because of the two physically challenging cruxes bookending the climb. The moves over the lip are particularly taxing, where hidden crimps and body tension elevate the effort. Compared to other Yukon routes, Yoga Man stands out for its compact intensity rather than sustained length.

Gear Requirements

Start with two bolts protecting the initial moves, then place standard trad gear up to 1 inch in the large flake and lay-back crack. Recommended cams include BD C4 sizes 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, and 0.75 for secure placements. Anchors remain fixed at the summit.

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Tags

trad gear
single pitch
crux moves
flake protection
lay-back crack
Yukon climbing