Set just west of the Exchamsiks River Bridge in Northern British Columbia, Exchamsiks offers climbers a compact but compelling roadside crag where south-facing gneiss rock heats under the sun and cooler breezes sweep in off the nearby river. This accessible spot is perfect for those seeking an approachable day of sport climbing peppered with classic routes and scenic river views. With an elevation gain of just 52 feet, Exchamsiks delivers climbs that are moderate in height but rich in character, offering a varied terrain that ranges from overhanging sections to slabs.

The approach is straightforward—starting at a small cairn just beyond the parking lot west of the avalanche barriers, a short trail weaves through the forest before opening onto the cliff face. The path is generally well-maintained, making it an easy stroll to your climb without any tricky terrain. The presence of the river nearby isn’t just for show; it generates a refreshing breeze that helps keep off biting insects during the sun-drenched summer months. This natural ventilation is a welcome relief on hotter days when the rock can become quite exposed.

Exchamsiks’ south-facing orientation means you’ll get plenty of warmth from the sun, which is great in cooler seasons but can make summer sessions lengthy if you don’t plan accordingly. The better months to visit are those when the air is cooler and the rock stays dry, as some of the climbs—especially in the overhanging sectors—remain usable even on wet days thanks to the way they shelter from rain.

Among the routes here, climbers will recognize classics like Atomic Garden (5.7), Grandpa Smurf (5.8), and the more challenging Gargamel (5.11a). Each route has its share of chalked holds and enough variety to hold your attention, whether you’re easing through a warmup pitch or testing your limits on the steeper faces. Implements of Destruction (5.7) offers a solid mid-level challenge, suitable for refining technique or enjoying a steady climb without overwhelming difficulty.

Climbing here leans heavily toward sport, with bolts well-placed to protect the moderately steep rock faces. Gear requirements are minimal but bring your usual rack for sport climbing—quickdraws and a rope will be your standards. While the gneiss can feel solid, always inspect holds as with any natural cliff, especially given the seasonal fluctuations that affect the rock.

The overall vibe at Exchamsiks is casual and refreshing, perfect for both local climbers and visitors passing through Northern BC. If you’re heading to terrace or exploring Northern BC’s rugged landscapes, this crag offers a rewarding stop with quick access, approachable climbs, and the bonus of sitting close to the river’s steady murmur.

Packing essentials like water, sun protection, and light layers will keep your day comfortable. Because the cliff is fairly low, plan your descent carefully. Most climbs top out on ledges with room to stand, so a controlled downclimb or walk-off along the trail is recommended rather than a rappel.

Whether you’re chasing a mellow climbing day with the occasional challenge or searching out a reliable spot that holds up through variable weather, Exchamsiks presents a straightforward, well-rounded experience. Expect a quiet crag with moderate difficulties, lively river breezes, and gneiss rock that shines under a clear Northern BC sky.