West Ridge on Mount Rexford offers an invigorating alpine climb that balances manageable difficulty with striking exposure, perfect for trad climbers eager to stretch their skills in the wild beauty of British Columbia. Beginning with some scrambling along the spine of the ridge, you’ll encounter a handful of fourth-class moves that keep you on your toes while offering a chance to feel the mountain’s raw energy beneath your fingertips. The route continues into two short but engaging pitches leading up to a false summit, where the terrain suddenly demands attention—a sharp, exposed traverse around the corner to the left tests your focus and sense of balance. The final pitch is a chimney sequence that leads you firmly to the true summit, rewarding your effort with panoramic views of the Western Chilliwack Range extending across the Fraser Valley.

Protection on this climb is straightforward, relying mainly on a single traditional rack, with all pitches short enough to be comfortably handled by a 60-meter rope. Rappelling is an essential part of the descent, as the route calls for three rappels back down the pitches you climbed, with an additional rappel from the ridge to the talus slope below, due to a few steep sections on the way down. This provides a clear and practical exit strategy but requires careful rope management and attention to anchors.

The approach is relatively direct compared to other alpine objectives in the area, but expect rugged terrain and variable footing—good boots and solid route-finding skills will serve you well. Timing is best in late spring through early fall, when snow has retreated enough to reveal solid rock and dry conditions. The ridge, exposed and airy, is ideal when brushed by cool mountain breezes but can become forbidding under wet or windy weather, so check conditions before setting off.

For climbers looking to blend light alpine adventure with classic trad climbing, West Ridge is a satisfying option. It provides a modest challenge with technical moves that reward focused attention more than brute force. The route’s exposed traverse and chimney give a taste of alpine complexity without pushing into high commitment territory, making it accessible but never dull. This climb fits well into broader explorations of the Western Chilliwack Range, known for its rugged peaks and vibrant wilderness.

Packing essentials means preparing for shifting weather, bringing layers for warmth, and carrying enough water and food for a full day. The climb invites a steady pace to keep energy balanced and maximize enjoyment on the rock. Whether you’re looking to sharpen your alpine trad skills or savor a memorable summit with manageable exposure, West Ridge on Mount Rexford delivers a rewarding experience layered with practical demands and natural grandeur.