Mount Rexford - Granite Heights in British Columbia’s Western Chilliwack Range

Chilliwack, British Columbia
granite
alpine
multi-pitch
high-clearance vehicle required
steep approach
clean rock
fractured granite
Length: 750 ft
Type: Trad | Alpine
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Mount Rexford offers climbers a rugged granite playground set high in British Columbia’s Western Chilliwack Range. Accessible via a steep trail from the Nesakwatch Creek Forest Service Road, this destination rewards adventurers with clean rock and sweeping summit views."

Mount Rexford - Granite Heights in British Columbia’s Western Chilliwack Range

Rising to 7,612 feet in the Western Chilliwack Range, Mount Rexford presents an authentic alpine climbing experience framed by raw granite ridges and dramatic views across Nesakwatch Creek valley to Mount Slesse. This area is accessed primarily from the Nesakwatch Creek Forest Service Road, where a high-clearance vehicle is essential before embarking on a short but brutally steep trail to reach the climbing zones. The effort involved in the approach sets the tone for the climb itself—challenging, solitary, and deeply rewarding.

The rock here is clean, fractured granite that holds well and offers solid placements. The summit ridge features quality climbing with exposure and a sense of untouched wilderness. Routes like the West Ridge, graded at 5.5, showcase classic alpine granite climbing — straightforward but requiring focus and solid route-finding skills. While only a handful of routes climb this striking ridge, what the area lacks in quantity, it makes up for in quality and the feeling of escaping the crowds to an authentic mountain setting.

Climbers looking for striking views will appreciate the vantage points atop the summit ridge that look directly across the valley to the imposing profile of Mount Slesse. The surrounding sub-area, described as the Fraser Valley and Western Chilliwack Range within British Columbia, offers a relatively remote setting where the climb is as much about the environment as the technical rock.

The approach itself is not to be underestimated. Starting from Nesakwatch Creek Forest Service Road, the dirt track demands a high-clearance vehicle capable of navigating rough terrain. The drive ends near a trailhead that leads to a steep ascent, so the approach requires good physical preparation and planning. For those coming in from the Centre Creek side, access is longer and demands more time and endurance.

Weather patterns here can shift quickly, typical of mountain environments in the Pacific Northwest. Precipitation is frequent, so plan your trip for the prime climbing months, generally stretching across late spring to early fall, when drier and more stable weather prevails. Always be ready for sudden weather changes and dress in layers.

Gear-wise, the granite character means traditional climbing protection is a must. Solid cams and nuts will serve well for placing secure pro along the clean cracks and broken edges. Given the alpine nature and exposed summit sections, climbers should be comfortable with multi-pitch trad routes and prepared for a descent by either downclimbing or rappelling, depending on route and conditions.

Mount Rexford’s climbing vibe is one of understated ruggedness. It is an ideal destination for climbers seeking solitude away from busier crags, and those wanting to sharpen alpine climbing skills on solid granite. Its proximity to Mount Slesse adds to its appeal as part of a larger climbing itinerary within this remarkable part of British Columbia.

Whether you are aiming to link pitches on the West Ridge or take in the raw beauty of the Nesakwatch Spires, this area demands respect and rewards with honest mountain climbing set against one of Canada’s most scenic backdrops. Prepare thoroughly, tread carefully, and soak in the rare combination of challenge and natural splendor that Mount Rexford offers.

Climber Safety

The approach trail is steep and the Forest Service Road requires a high-clearance vehicle – be prepared for rough driving conditions and physical exertion hiking in. Rock quality is generally solid but always test protection carefully on fractured sections. Weather can change suddenly, so come equipped for alpine conditions.

Area Details

TypeTrad | Alpine
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length750 feet

Local Tips

Use a high-clearance vehicle to reach the end of Nesakwatch Creek Forest Service Road.

Prepare for a steep, short but strenuous trail to the climbing base.

Check weather conditions carefully — Pacific Northwest weather can shift rapidly.

Bring a full trad rack; the rock is clean granite with good opportunities for solid gear placements.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The climbing on Mount Rexford centers around moderate trad pitches like the West Ridge at 5.5, which offers solid but straightforward alpine granite climbing. The ratings here tend to feel fair with solid protection opportunities, making it accessible for climbers comfortable on moderate multi-pitch routes. It compares well to other alpine granite climbs in British Columbia, providing steady granite climbing without overly stiff grades.

Gear Requirements

Expect to use a full rack of cams and nuts for protection on clean fractured granite. A high-clearance vehicle is essential for accessing the Nesakwatch Creek Forest Service Road. Approach involves a steep trail requiring good physical condition.

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Tags

granite
alpine
multi-pitch
high-clearance vehicle required
steep approach
clean rock
fractured granite