Rising boldly out of the Wyoming plains, the West Face of Devils Tower commands attention with its clean lines and approachable routes. Visible from the parking lot, this side of the tower offers climbers a chance to engage with some of the purest columnar cracks and dihedrals that have become climbing legends. The wilderness surrounding the tower is a study in contrasts - the vast open skies make way for the close-up textures of sheer columnar rock.

The approach begins where the main trail veers south along the base of the tower, shortly after which you leave the marked path near the Durrance approach. A boulderfield ascent leads directly to the base, where climbers find the hallmark stem box – two wide dihedrals facing each other, extending about 150 feet, ending at a ledge on the left pillar. From here, routes fan out along the West Face, with El Matador immediately visible and the grand Durrance Pillar anchoring the right flank.

This face holds some of the cleanest, most accessible climbs on the tower, primarily concentrated on the lower two-thirds of the wall. Weathering here feels sculpted and solid, providing ideal friction and protection placements. While the rock above this zone becomes less appealing, the lower sections reward climbers with sustained pitches of classic crack climbing. Multi-pitch rappels—usually involving two ropes—are the standard way back down, making it important to be well-prepped for technical descent.

Classic climbs on the West Face further define the character of the area. Carol's Crack offers a challenging 5.11a crack climb with a confident reputation, while El Matador (5.10d) and Tulgey Wood (5.10a) provide well-loved test pieces. The McCarthy West Face variants present a variety of climbing styles, intricately weaving through cracks and corners. Other favorites like Spank The Monkey and Avalon add variety within the 5.10 to 5.11 grade range, a sweet spot for many skilled trad climbers seeking engaging moves and clean pro.

Climbing the West Face means experiencing the tower in a way that few other aspects deliver - approachable routes with a sense of history and purity. The climbing style here rewards heady crack technique and patient route finding. Exposure is ever-present but manageable, and the careful use of protection is essential given the technical nature of many pitches.

Outside of climbing, the approach hike is straightforward but not without quirks. Boulder hopping takes you to the base through a terrain punctuated occasionally by sparse poison ivy, especially on the northward scramble towards Carol's Crack. It's important to wear appropriate clothing to avoid contact with these irritants.

Seasonality plays a key role in trip planning. Climbers should heed the voluntary June closure instated to protect nesting raptors, including peregrine and prairie falcons, which nest on nearby East and Northeast faces. This pause honors the shared stewardship of the land and ensures that future generations will continue to enjoy climbing here. Spring through early fall offers the best climbing window, with the West Face’s orientation delivering sun in the morning and shade in the later afternoon, providing comfortable conditions throughout the day.

Descent requires attention and preparation. Most routes feature bolted rappels that descend the lower sections of the climbs, facilitating a safe exit. Given the technical nature and necessary double-rope setups, climbers should be confident in their rappelling skills and carry full rappel kits.

Devils Tower itself is recognized nationally as a protected area, drawing visitors not only for climbing but also for its cultural importance and sweeping vistas. Climbing here connects one to a legacy of adventurers who have tested their skills on its faces under ever-changing Wyoming skies.

In short, the West Face of Devils Tower offers a balanced blend of classic crack climbing, accessible approaches, and timeless mountain beauty. It’s a place where anticipation rises with the pitch count, and every move feels part of a larger story on ancient rock columns soaring above the plains.

Prepare carefully, respect closures, bring a full trad rack for finger to hand-sized cracks, and get ready to experience some of the cleanest lines in one of America’s most legendary climbing destinations.