South and East Faces of Devils Tower: Classic Multi-Pitch Trad Adventures

Hulett, Wyoming
crack climbing
multi-pitch
historic routes
long rappels
exposed
views
good for fall
rap anchors
national monument
Length: 250–300 feet (to meadows) ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch (mostly 2 pitches, some single pitch)
Protected Place
Devils Tower National Monument
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Home to iconic cracks and sweeping meadows, the South and East Faces of Devils Tower deliver some of Wyoming’s best multi-pitch trad climbing. Endurance, technical jams, and big views are on tap — all with an approach that brings you close to the Tower’s storied history."

South and East Faces of Devils Tower: Classic Multi-Pitch Trad Adventures

Few climbing destinations in North America compare to the drama and exposure found on the South and East Faces of Devils Tower. Rising above the rolling prairies of northeastern Wyoming, these sun-drenched columns have long been magnets for traditional climbers seeking a striking combination of big views, historic lines, and high adventure. The approach is as much a part of the journey as the Summit itself — winding from the busy Devil's Tower parking area, you quickly trade bustling tourists for the quiet crunch of gravel beneath your feet. The trail wraps around the Tower’s base, branching off near a viewing tube (where history buffs can spot remnants of the old wooden ladder near Bon Homme), before angling upward over slick slabs and time-polished boulders. The closer you get, the sharper the anticipation grows as those classic geometric cracks come into focus.

Most of the climbing here leads toward the meadows — broad, grassy terraces that beckon climbers with the promise of a comfortable rest after the tower’s steeper pitches. The routes themselves are renowned. From the technical endurance of 'Soler' and 'Tad' on the East Face, to historical gems like 'Bon Homme Variation' and the steep single-pitch challenge of 'Walt Bailey Memorial' on the South Face, each climb is a rite of passage. The lines are generally characterized by thoughtful crack climbing, with sustained jamming, face moves, and periodic rests at stances that allow you to take in the uninterrupted Wyoming sky. On busy weekends, you’ll hear the occasional whoop echoing from above — a clear sign that someone has just unlocked one of the area’s fabled cruxes.

When it’s time to descend, climbers have multiple options, but most choose the straightforward three-rappel route off the meadow’s chain anchors using two ropes. For those who select alternative routes, some have their own distinct rappel anchors — but double-check your beta before committing. The exposure is significant, and while the volcanic columns are mostly solid, the approach slabs can be unnervingly slick, especially with a heavy rack or in damp conditions. Summer heat or unexpected storms can add another layer of challenge, so thoughtful timing and preparation go a long way here.

Climbers are reminded that respect for the area’s cultural and natural history is crucial. Every June, there's a voluntary climbing closure in effect out of respect for American Indian cultural observances and the raptors nesting on the Tower. Plan your visit accordingly, and consult the National Park Service for any temporary closures of the East and Northeast Faces to protect Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.

The reward for your effort? Views that roll to infinity, the feeling of true vertical adventure, and a chance to walk in the footsteps of generations of climbers. Whether you’re ticking off lauded classics from 'Bon Homme Variation' to modern testpieces like 'Double Indemnity' or 'Let Me Go Wild', the South and East Faces offer adventures that are both accessible and awe-inspiring. Bring a double rack, stay sharp on the approach, and get ready for some of the best multi-pitch crack climbing in the West.

Climber Safety

Slick approach slabs can be hazardous, especially when wet or with a heavy rack. Test holds, double-check anchors before rappelling, and consider wearing a helmet at all times. Watch for summer storms and be aware of seasonal closures for both cultural and wildlife protection.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchesmulti-pitch (mostly 2 pitches, some single pitch)
Length250–300 feet (to meadows) feet

Local Tips

Arrive early, especially on weekends — popular routes see queues.

Avoid heavy packs; the approach slabs can be slippery.

Respect the voluntary June closure and all raptor protection signs.

Keep your topo handy as route starts can be confusing among the many cracks.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Grades at Devils Tower’s South and East Faces are generally regarded as honest, with some classic routes demanding both stamina and solid crack technique. The ratings feel fair for the style — not sandbagged like some older trad areas and not particularly soft, especially compared to other granite multi-pitch destinations like Yosemite. Expect to earn every point on the YDS scale!

Gear Requirements

Most routes between the South and East Faces require a standard double rack of cams and nuts with extra small to hand-sized pro for extended cracks. Some routes feature dedicated fixed anchors for rappelling. Two ropes are needed for descent via the meadows. Approach shoes recommended for slick slabs.

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Tags

crack climbing
multi-pitch
historic routes
long rappels
exposed
views
good for fall
rap anchors
national monument