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Warn 'er: A Subtle Challenge in Clear Creek Canyon

Golden, Colorado United States
crack climbing
traditional protection
single pitch
technical traverse
cool shade
moderate challenge
rocky foothold
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Warn 'er
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Warn 'er presents a deceptively technical crack climb tucked just left of Tweety in Clear Creek Canyon. Its subtle traverses and demanding gear placements challenge climbers with a route that rewards precision and steady nerves over sheer strength."

Warn 'er: A Subtle Challenge in Clear Creek Canyon

Warn 'er stands quietly to the left of the better-known Tweety in Clear Creek Canyon, inviting climbers with a deceptively understated crack system that demands respect and careful movement. The route’s entrance starts down and left at a prominent crack that leads into a cozy nook, setting the tone for a climb that requires more finesse than brute strength. From here, climbers place protection and sling long draws to negotiate a slightly uneasy traverse right at the crux—an exposed section where balance and precise footwork make all the difference.

Beyond this crossing, a series of intermittently challenging jams and face holds guide you upward through slick, sometimes awkward rock features. The crack widens toward the top, offering a welcome relief and a chance to breathe after the demanding moves below. Though the route stretches only about 60 feet, the technical demands paired with the subtle variations in the crack’s width keep the climb engaging. Off to the left at the top, a tree with two 48-inch slings provides a directional anchor, smoothing the way for the second climber.

Protection here is straightforward but requires attentiveness; a rack of nuts up to a #3 Camalot is sufficient, though the smaller #1 Camalot placements are frequent and most reliable. Wire placements can be tricky due to the slick nature of the rock grooves, so test each carefully. The rock is solid, but its slick texture tests your gear placements as much as your technique.

Approach access from East Colfax is short and manageable, making Warn 'er a reasonable objective for a half-day outing. The trail winds through open scrub and scattered pines, offering crisp mountain air and clear views of the canyon’s rugged contours. The climb’s north-northeast facing wall benefits from morning sun, but afternoon shade cools the granite—a welcome contrast especially in summer heat.

For climbers seeking a route that rewards careful reading of the rock and strategic gear placements, Warn 'er is a quietly satisfying challenge. It's less crowded than neighboring routes, providing a sense of solitude and focus for those ready to test themselves on a climb that demands calm and precision rather than raw power.

Climber Safety

The slickness of the rock slots can compromise wire placements, so check gear security carefully. The traverse near the bottom introduces some exposure; secure long slings to prevent gear walkers and maintain balance.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch morning sun on the climb and avoid afternoon heat.

Bring slings of 48" length for the directional anchor at the top tree.

Test all wire placements thoroughly—rock texture makes them less secure than cams or nuts.

Use the Tweety anchor bolts for a safe descent rappel to the right.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9- PG13
Quality
Consensus:While rated at 5.9- PG13, Warn 'er tends to feel a touch harder than its neighbor Tweety due to its exposed traverse crux and the finesse required for placing protection. This route asks for steady nerves and precise footwork more than brute force, making it a solid test for those comfortable with crack climbing but seeking a compelling challenge.

Gear Requirements

A single rack of nuts to a #3 Camalot covers most of this route's needs. The frequent #1 Camalot placements offer reliable protection, while wires require careful testing due to slick rock slots.

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Tags

crack climbing
traditional protection
single pitch
technical traverse
cool shade
moderate challenge
rocky foothold