"Uranus provides a compelling alternative to Eldorado’s Long John Wall, featuring a wide crack that demands clever gear placements on a single 70-foot pitch. Perfect for trad climbers seeking a solid 5.8 challenge with classic West Ridge exposure."
Uranus offers a distinctly refreshing option for climbers looking to break from the well-trodden path of Eldorado Canyon’s Long John Wall. This single-pitch trad climb, stretching about 70 feet, places you on the broad right flank of an alcove crowned by a solitary tree, immediately setting a tone of rugged intimacy. From the base, the route invites you to tackle a wide crack that demands adaptability; its generous width fluctuates, testing your ability to place gear strategically despite the occasional pinch points and a couple of questionable pins guarding the approach to the widest sections. These pins, while present, are better bypassed in favor of solid placements nearby, making a standard rack ending in a #4 Camalot your ideal companion.
The approach is straightforward if you’re familiar with Eldorado’s West Ridge area, swooping near Boulder, Colorado, but the climb itself feels like a pocket of solitude amid one of the most classic climbing venues in the state. The wide crack challenges you to blend hand jams and smaller gear placements skillfully, rewarding those prepared to read the rock’s subtle rhythms. Though the route demands solid trad technique, its 5.8- rating keeps it approachable for intermediate climbers looking to expand their trad comfort zone.
Surrounding terrain carries the signature Eldorado mix of warm, sun-soaked sandstone that grows lighter as the day progresses, while the ridge’s aspect often grants afternoon shade—perfect timing for climbing during summer’s heated hours. After topping out, retreating is equally simple, rewarding you with sweeping views of Boulder’s rugged skyline and the nearby open spaces that stretch toward the Continental Divide.
Plan your gear carefully: a full standard rack with an emphasis on medium to large cams up to a #4 Camalot will cover the crack widths adequately, with attention to careful placement over the questionable pins. Footwear with a precise edge and sticky rubber keeps your footwork crisp on the variable crack edges. Hydration and sun protection remain essentials given the exposure on the ridge and relatively short but intense nature of the pitch.
Uranus pairs the thrill of Eldorado’s classic face climbing with the fresh challenge of crack conservation and gear strategy. It’s a call to climbers ready for adventure with a straightforward route that demands trust in your protection choices and appreciation for the canyon’s textured sandstone. When the wind hums through the pines above and the afternoon sun warms the cliffs, Uranus beckons with the promise of a rewarding trad experience balanced perfectly between challenge and accessibility.
Exercise caution around the two pins before the wide crack section; they appear unstable and shouldn’t be relied upon. Adequate protection is available nearby, so focus on careful gear placement, especially in the wider crack segments where placements can be deceptive.
Start at the last pitch of Long John Wall and move right about ten feet to find the route's alcove and tree marker.
Bring a full standard rack emphasizing medium and large cams to handle the diverse crack widths.
Avoid trusting the two questionable pins; place gear carefully before entering the wide crack.
Plan your climb for afternoon shade in summer to avoid heat on the sun-exposed sandstone.
Standard rack with cams ranging up to a #4 Camalot covers the crack widths, with reliance on solid placements over two less-reliable pins near the wide section.
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