"Tortuga offers a classic trad experience on Copper Mountain’s steep faces, blending ledgy moves with a thrilling second-pitch traverse. This four-pitch climb challenges with mixed protection and rewarding exposure amid Northern BC’s rugged beauty."
Tortuga stands as a compelling four-pitch trad climb set within the rugged terrain of Copper Mountain in Northern British Columbia. This route delivers a progressive challenge that blends technical movement and route-finding with a scenic backdrop that hints at the raw wilderness beyond. The approach leads you through forested pockets of spruce and pine, where the quiet hum of the northern wild accompanies your trek to the base. From the first pitch, climbers are greeted by a sequence of ledges that demand steady footwork and attention to subtle rock features as they gain height toward a commanding arete crowned by a stunted tree. This initial climb sets the rhythm, with bolt placements acting as strategic waypoints guiding you along.
Pitch two is the heart of the route and demands your full focus. This 35-meter traverse along a delicate weakness tests both your balance and commitment. The rock feels alive here, daring you to follow its contours as it veers outward, exposing a long reach and precise protection placements. The two-bolt belay at the end of this pitch offers a reassuring resting point, but falling during the traverse could lead to a challenging ride, so it's crucial to place solid gear and maintain control.
Following the exposure, pitch three eases the tension with an uphill scramble to a large crack system where a #4 cam will find welcoming placements. The climb continues to a generous tree ledge, a natural sanctuary to regroup and prepare for the final push. Pitch four is the route’s climax—steep jugs give way to a sustained corner crack where bolts mark a line to a secure two-bolt anchor. The rock quality here demands respect, and the corner’s angle forces precise foot and hand positioning.
Descending Tortuga requires attention, as the rappel down traverses across forested gullies and shrubby patches, eventually linking to the top of a neighboring route named Mammacita. The descent is a reminder that adventure continues beyond the anchors, and staying aware of footing on the descent path is essential to safe return.
For climbers planning their ascent, the route's mixed protection style means carrying a well-rounded rack to accommodate bolts, natural gear, and the occasional large cam placement. The variety in protection keeps the climb engaging and requires flexible thinking. The area’s northerly latitude means that weather can shift quickly—early summer through early fall offers the best window with stable conditions and moderate temperatures. Expect a day that balances light and shadow as the face catches afternoon sun, highlighting the texture of the rock and shadows in the cracks.
Tortuga is a straightforward but rewarding climb that appeals to trad climbers eager to explore Northern BC’s quieter walls. It’s a route where pragmatism meets adventure—challenging enough to inspire focus but accessible for those prepared to navigate its bolts and natural features. When the day ends with the quiet of the forest settling in, you’ll feel connected not only to the rock but to the enduring pulse of this wild mountain range.
The traverse on pitch two poses a notable hazard if protection is inadequate; a fall here could pendulum towards the rock face. Additionally, the descent path is uneven with tree roots and loose rock, so caution is advised when rappelling and hiking out.
Place solid protection on pitch two traverse to safeguard your second from potentially long falls.
Bring a #4 cam for the large crack on pitch three; it’s key for a secure placement.
Start early to enjoy cooler morning temperatures and reduced exposure during the traverse pitch.
Rappel down carefully via the established anchors; the descent moves through forested gullies with uneven footing.
Mixed protection: a combination of bolts for fixed security, complemented by natural gear placements including a bulky #4 cam essential for pitch three’s crack. Expect to manage both quickdraws and trad gear throughout the route.
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