"Tortuga on Copper Mountain showcases an exceptional 35-meter traverse across sun-bleached granite dotted with moss and lichen. This route blends mixed gear and bolts, comfortable ledges, and a thrilling climb that sits just above a rock quarry near Terrace, British Columbia."
Tortuga on Copper Mountain offers climbers a truly distinctive experience high above the rugged quarry that defines this vibrant part of Terrace, British Columbia. The centerpiece here is a breathtaking 35-meter traverse pitch carved into sun-bleached white granite beneath a line of scrubbed moss and lichen that stands out boldly in the landscape. This feature, shaped strikingly like a turtle shell, demands attention with its blend of mixed gear and bolt-protected face climbing, rewarding adventurers with superb positioning and generous belays perched on wide, comfortable ledges. It’s a technical yet approachable encounter with the rock where crux moves are brief and the protection ample, inviting climbers across skill levels to test their mettle without intimidation.
Approaching Tortuga involves an engaging trek up from underneath the power lines just above the rock quarry. You’ll find the area by locating the notable ‘turtle’ formation situated between the Peanut and Eternal Urinal routes. The path climbs up a talus field to a gully on the left side of the feature, which in spring transforms into a waterfall corridor, adding a refreshing natural soundtrack to the approach. Fixed ropes mark the way, easing access over moss-covered bluffs and steep patches, and improvements made in 2019 have streamlined the route with new pitches enhancing the approach to Mammacita nearby, easing the transition from valley floor to cliff face.
The climbing itself blends securely placed traditional gear with well-maintained bolts, giving climbers a mix of protection styles. The granitic rock is often smooth with striking textural contrasts provided by moss patches and lichen. Pitch-to-pitch movement feels fluid, and the belay stations—set on large ledges—offer genuine comfort to rest and regroup, a welcome feature on multi-pitch routes. Classic climbs on Copper Mountain include Chupacabra (5.10a), Mammacita (5.9), and Tortuga itself (5.10b). Each carries a solid three-star rating, confirming their popularity and quality without overhyping the difficulty. The crux sections on these climbs are well shielded and relatively short, meaning even climbers wary of hard moves can manage the routes with focus and confidence.
Located at 1,442 feet elevation, Tortuga’s positioning puts it in a temperate zone where weather can shift seasonally. Its sun-bleached surfaces mean morning to mid-day climbs are typically best for warmth and grip, while the late afternoons can bring cooling shade. Copper Mountain’s proximity to Terrace provides practical access to supplies and amenities, while still offering a sense of remoteness that fuels adventure.
For climbers visiting Tortuga, the surrounding environment encourages an immersive connection to the natural world with forested trails leading to open rock faces and quiet moments above the quarry’s echoing chasm. It’s a place where technical skill meets natural beauty, shaped by the tactile challenge of granite and moss. Whether you’re here to follow a classic line or simply soak in a traverse unlike any other, the quality rock and thoughtful protection here create an experience both exhilarating and safe.
A few practical notes before you set out: the approach involves uneven terrain and some rope-assisted sections, so wear sturdy footwear and be prepared for damp areas, particularly in spring. Although the rock is solid, always check fixed gear before trusting it fully. The routes favor mixed climbing styles, so a rack including cams and nuts, plus quickdraws, will serve you well. With stunning granite, clear protection, and unmissable belay stations, Tortuga is a rare find for those craving a blend of adventure, challenge, and a uniquely memorable route profile in Northern British Columbia’s Copper Mountain region.
Although the climbs feature large, comfortable ledges for belays, the approach includes slippery mossy sections and fixed ropes that require caution. Seasonal waterfall runoff can wet the approach gully, so come prepared for slick rock and wet conditions, especially in spring.
Follow fixed ropes on approach carefully especially during wet spring conditions.
Bring a rack suited for mixed climbing — a set of cams, nuts, and quickdraws.
Start climbs in the morning to take advantage of warmer granite surfaces.
Check all fixed gear thoroughly before committing on climbs.
The climbs require a mix of traditional gear and quickdraws for bolts. Protection options include gear placements on featured face sections, with several bolted areas providing solid security. Fixed lines on the approach assist with access through mossy bluffs and steep gullies.
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