HomeClimbingThe Raven and the Bear

The Raven and the Bear: A Sharp Encounter with Southern Crags' Quiet Sport Classic

Penticton, British Columbia Canada
sport climbing
slab
mini-roofs
shady belay
single pitch
Okanagan
British Columbia
Length: 100 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Raven and the Bear
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Raven and the Bear offers a compact 100-foot single-pitch climb on Southern Crags, blending slab and mini-roofs with sharp, technical movement. A favorite for those looking to hone footwork in a setting where rock meets scenic lake views."

The Raven and the Bear: A Sharp Encounter with Southern Crags' Quiet Sport Classic

The Raven and the Bear unfolds on the smooth stone faces of Southern Crags, offering a focused but richly rewarding climb that blends technical slab movements with subtle, dynamic transitions around mini-roofs. Set quietly above Skaha Lake in British Columbia’s Okanagan region, this single-pitch sport route stretches about 100 feet, a compact yet fulfilling challenge that invites climbers to engage fully with the wall’s character. Rock here is firm and textured, offering confident holds while demanding attention to balance and footwork.

As you begin your ascent, the rock feels alive beneath your fingertips—cool, with a faint grain that anchors each grip. The approach to the shallow bulges and faint overhangs tests your ability to shift weight gracefully; strong core engagement and smooth movement reward the climber paying close attention. Some climbers find the difficulty settles comfortably around 5.8, while others push the moves into 5.10a territory. This variability makes The Raven and the Bear a great test-piece for those keen to refine foot precision and control on slab while keeping an eye on occasional roof sections that break the rhythm.

Belaying takes place in a shady nook just off the main wall—an inviting spot shielded from the afternoon sun and perfect for a brief rest before or after the route. The rock face enjoys partial shade, tempering the heat and lending a pleasant coolness even on warmer days. Southern Crags itself commands sweeping views of Skaha’s shimmering waters just below, making every moment on the wall a conversation between solid rock and the expansive Okanagan landscape.

Protection consists of 11 bolts spaced thoughtfully along the route, providing a secure line for sport climbers. Given the nature of the moves, climbers should be prepared to place some careful cleaning efforts after their ascent; bringing a partner to follow and clear quickdraws is recommended for smooth runouts on descent.

The approach to the crag is straightforward and well-maintained—just a short hike through open terrain with scattered trees providing intermittent cover. This easy access means The Raven and the Bear is accessible for a late afternoon climb, perfect for soaking in the quiet of the Southern Crags without the bustle seen elsewhere.

For those planning to tackle this route, footwear that balances sensitivity with reliable edging will serve best, as the slab sections require precise foot placement and trust in smaller holds. Hydration is straightforward but important: the approachable trail makes it easy to bring water, though early mornings or late afternoons offer the most pleasant temperatures for climbing.

Whether you’re sharpening your slab technique or seeking an engaging pitch in an inspiring setting, The Raven and the Bear stands out as a must-visit climb in the Skaha region—where technical subtlety meets the unpretentious beauty of British Columbia’s climbing offerings.

Climber Safety

While well-bolted, some sections feature longer spacing between bolts that can expose climbers to moderate fall potential if moves are missed. Rock quality is solid but stay aware of any loose edges near the mini-roofs. The approach is gentle but watch footing on stone stairs when returning to your vehicle.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start the climb in the morning or late afternoon to avoid midday sun exposure.

Bring a partner ready to follow for cleaning the route efficiently.

Wear shoes that prioritize edging precision to master the slab sections.

Hydrate well on the approach, but the short hike keeps your pack light.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9, The Raven and the Bear straddles the line between a comfortable slab challenge and a move-intensive climb with cruxes near 5.10a. The rating feels slightly soft for some, especially climbers familiar with the polished slab style of Southern Crags, but the mini-roofs inject enough complexity to stretch your technique. Compared to other local sport sport routes, it offers a crisp test of balance and smoothness with fewer runaway bolts, demanding focus throughout.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by 11 bolts spaced to accommodate confident clipping. Due to occasional runouts and to keep the line clean, a climbing partner should follow the route to retrieve quickdraws. Ideal equipment includes a standard sport rack with draws and a rope suitable for a 100-foot pitch.

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Tags

sport climbing
slab
mini-roofs
shady belay
single pitch
Okanagan
British Columbia