"Rising above the river east of Hope, Nicolum Knob offers steep granite faces, varied multi-pitch routes, and a sunny, quick-drying aspect. With both classic crack and face climbs and plenty of adventure, it rewards climbers ready to seek out this off-the-beaten-path BC crag."
Perched just east of Hope, British Columbia, Nicolum Knob stands as a hidden jewel for climbers seeking both challenge and solitude. Rising roughly 180 meters above the forest, this granite buttress offers a heady mix of adventure and practicality—a wall shaped by the elements and seasoned by the dedicated hands of local climbers since the late 1990s. Most of the development came in the early 2000s, and while the area hasn’t seen heavy traffic recently, what awaits the persistent is well worth the approach.
Nicolum Knob’s charm is unmistakable once you leave the hum of the Coquihalla Highway behind. The face is steep in sections, softened by broad ledges that lend a sense of security during multi-pitch climbs and allow for relaxed belay stances. Climbers here will work cracks and subtle face holds on clean granite, moving fluidly between styles—some routes demand a traditional rack, others call for a mix of gear and bolts, and a handful are pure sport affairs. Every pitch ends with a bolted rap station, sparing you the headache of complex descents and letting you focus your energy where it belongs: on the climbing.
The buttress divides naturally into eastern and western sectors, each with its own personality. Gaining access is half the adventure: look for the quirky marker—a hubcap nailed to a tree—that signals the start of the approach trail from the highway shoulder. Within minutes, you’re slipping into the woods, the traffic fading behind you. To reach the eastern climbs, swing right early to access clean slabs like Dead Soles, First Blood, and the Kyle Hudie Route. Push higher up the trail and a steep, forested gully leads to the west side’s standouts: Kemosabe and the memorable Two Bolt or Not to Bee, which catches the eye with its left-facing dihedral. Continue even farther and you’ll spot Lust and Greed, perched invitingly on the right side of the gully and easy to scout from the trail.
Climbers here can expect generally clean routes thanks to the southerly exposure—this face dries quickly after rain and soaks up the sun, making it ideal for shoulder-season climbing. While the top of the formation can be accessed by a steep, winding trail up the gully (popular with hikers and used for rappel access), top-rope options are limited due to the wall’s size and aspect. Those eager for adventure will find untapped potential—many lines remain unexplored by all but the most determined locals.
Classic lines here have developed a quiet reputation among those who know them. Land Down Under (5.10a) tempts those looking for sustained, rewarding movement, while To Bolt or Not to Bee (5.10b) tests your head and technique in one stylish package. The climbing across the area generally feels fair, with honest ratings and straightforward protection—perfect for building confidence on granite.
Despite its rugged feel, Nicolum Knob is surprisingly accessible. The recommended and hassle-free approach is to park on the shoulder of the northbound on-ramp to Highway 5, five minutes from the cliff. From there, a short stroll crosses Nicolum Creek and picks up the climber’s trail marked by those distinctive hubcaps. The bluff sits quiet above the Coquihalla River, offering expansive views, a clean rock canvas, and a vibe free from the crowds of more famous BC destinations.
The area isn’t without challenges: route information can be sparse, and the approach can feel a touch adventurous, especially after rain or during high traffic seasons. But that scarcity of beta and relative obscurity only add to Nicolum Knob’s enduring appeal. This is a crag for those who value discovery, self-sufficiency, and a day spent on real stone.
If you’re looking for classic multi-pitch, a range of moderate to stiff technical climbing, and a spot with room still for exploration, Nicolum Knob is worthy of your attention. Plan your approach, pack for a mix of trad and sport lines, and head toward Hope with high expectations—there’s real granite adventure waiting just beyond the highway’s edge.
While the climbing is on solid granite, ledges between steep pitches require mindful movement—protect your second and manage rope drag. The approach gully can be slick after rain and route info may be limited, so double-check anchors before committing to descents.
Start your approach at the distinctive hubcap marker just off the highway—look for these nailed to a small tree.
South-facing wall means the granite dries fast after rain; shoulder seasons are optimal for cooler temps.
Be prepared for sparse route information—bring a topo and enjoy the adventure aspect.
The trail is steep in spots, especially in the access gully, so sturdy shoes make the walk in and out easier.
Bring a standard trad rack with a mix of cams and nuts for the crack and trad sections, plus draws for the mixed and sport routes. Every pitch is equipped with bolted rappel stations—a welcome relief for easy and quick descents. Prepare for a blend of trad, mixed, and sport climbing on smooth granite. Some approaches may be more comfortable with approach shoes due to ledgy terrain.
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