HomeClimbingThe Plague

The Plague: A Technical Trad Challenge at Plum Wall

Penticton, Canada
technical
overlaps
mixed protection
granite
single-pitch
trad
Skaha
Length: 75 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Plague
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Plague is a sharp, technical trad route on Plum Wall’s Fortress section that tests precision and commitment through a series of tight overlaps. Its mixed protection and focused crux make it an essential challenge for climbers seeking refined movement on Skaha’s granite."

The Plague: A Technical Trad Challenge at Plum Wall

The Plague at Plum Wall stands out as a sharp, focused test of technical trad climbing tucked within the rugged beauty of Skaha’s granite playground. Beginning just beside a prominent boulder, this 75-foot route thrusts climbers into a compact journey through a series of demanding overlaps that demand precise footwork and calculated gear placements. The sharp edges and tight holds invite an intense relationship between climber and stone, with a rhythm that requires both patience and commitment.

Located on the Fortress section of Plum Wall, the climb unfolds on solid granite that challenges you to balance power with finesse. The name “The Plague” carries a dark echo from its first ascent history — marked by a "plague of Barleys" that left a serious mark on the party. This backstory adds a layer of gritty character to the climb, hinting at the focus and perseverance needed to stand tall on this wall.

Protection on The Plague is mixed; six bolts are interspersed with gear placements, requiring climbers to carry a thoughtful rack of cams and nuts. This blend offers a degree of security from fixed gear while maintaining the feel of a traditional route. The technical overlaps push you to place gear carefully in tight positions — a strategic game that rewards experience and attention to detail.

Approaching the route is straightforward, with a short hike from the main Plum Wall parking area. Expect a well-marked, moderate trail that winds through scattered trees and patches of sun-dappled granite slabs. The overall exposure is modest, but the compact nature of the route keeps your senses sharp and your focus narrowed on each move.

For climbers eyeing The Plague, it demands a solid 5.10d edge with finger and hand jams, technical balance moves, and the mental stamina to navigate through brief but demanding crux sequences. The route feels appropriately graded — not soft, yet not overly punishing — with a definitive crux that elevates the effort. Compared to other climbs in the area, it delivers a distinct flavor of intricate movement rather than brute strength.

The surrounding Plum Wall area offers stunning views of Skaha Lake below and the sprawling Okanagan Valley beyond. The granite face itself takes the sun well into the afternoon, making late morning to early afternoon the ideal window for climbing when the stone is warm but not overheated. Early summer through early fall provides the most reliable conditions.

Safety considerations focus on the nature of protection — the mix of bolts and gear means you must be adept at placing pro in somewhat awkward spots. Rock quality is solid but watch for occasional loose flakes near the start. The descent is simple, with a short walk-off back to the trailhead following the ridge up top. Always double-check anchors if rappelling, as there is a risk of loose gear or worn runners.

The Plague offers a concise and rewarding experience for trad climbers seeking a technically engaging route within the diverse climbing environment of Plum Wall. It challenges your skills, sharpens your tactics, and rewards with quiet moments staring out toward Skaha’s shimmering waters — a climb that balances grit with grace and demands your full attention from first bolt to last hold.

Climber Safety

While the granite is generally solid, some areas near the start can have loose flakes, so double-check holds. Mixed protection requires confidence in gear placements and awareness of potential aged bolts. The descent is a walk-off but be vigilant when setting up anchors for rappel.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length75 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy steady temperatures and avoid afternoon heat on the granite.

Pack a full trad rack including small cams for tricky gear placements.

Check anchors carefully before rappelling; some fixed gear can be aged or loose.

Wear approach shoes with good grip for the short trail and granite slab access.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d grade reflects a genuine technical challenge highlighted by a stiff crux through overlapping sections. The rating is well-earned, balancing precise footwork and careful protection placement. It offers a different kind of test compared to more endurance-focused local climbs, rewarding finesse over pure strength.

Gear Requirements

Mixed protection with six bolts complemented by trad gear placement; bring a rack optimized for small to medium cams and nuts to navigate the technical overlaps safely.

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Tags

technical
overlaps
mixed protection
granite
single-pitch
trad
Skaha