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The Generator: A Technical Two-Pitch Sport Climb on Gomer Wall

Cedar Park, Canada
roof crux
loose rock
technical moves
short pitches
lichen covered
helmet recommended
rope drag
Length: 180 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
The Generator
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Generator delivers two sharp pitches of sport climbing on Gomer Wall, blending technical moves with careful protection. The first pitch offers engaging, sustained 5.9+ climbing, while the second presents a carefully negotiated 5.10c crux on less stable rock. A route for climbers who value precision and caution."

The Generator: A Technical Two-Pitch Sport Climb on Gomer Wall

The Generator on Gomer Wall is a compact but challenging two-pitch sport climb that calls climbers to test their finesse and judgment amid changing rock quality. Situated in the sprawling Cedar Park area of British Columbia’s Okanagan, this route strikes a balance between approachable climbing and a cautionary tale about careful route selection. The first pitch starts with engaging 5.9+ moves that demand control, including a bold crux just a few meters off the ground beneath a roof feature, protected by bolts. This leads to a second crux closer to the anchors where the route trends right for a more manageable finish. P1 offers solid climbing on mostly sound rock, giving a rewarding start to the ascent and a comfortable belay ledge that encourages parties to pause and reassess before continuing.

The second pitch steps into a more complex zone — here, the terrain softens to easier climbing but is colored by lichen-covered stone and loose blocks, requiring heightened awareness. This pitch’s main challenge is a vertical face peppered with mini-roofs and an off-vertical, right-facing corner which, while bolted, demands precision and careful clipping. The final moves involve a delicate traverse over a sizeable roof to reach the chains. Loose rock and brush near the anchors mean helmets are essential, and this section is best treated with caution. The pitches should never be linked due to severe rope drag, and belaying from the top of pitch two is ill-advised because of the exposed hanging stance.

Located at latitude 49.77624 and longitude -119.53432, Gomer Wall sits within a rugged yet accessible environment with a predominantly west-facing aspect that catches afternoon sun. Climbers will find the walk-in straightforward but should prepare for a brief approach through mixed terrain that includes forest patches and open rock slabs. Given the presence of loose rock on pitch two and the bushy area around the anchor, helmets and deliberate movement are non-negotiable safety gear. Hydration and lightweight rack choices suit this route well, with seven bolts on pitch one and six on pitch two offering reliable protection.

The Generator is not for those seeking a wide-open alpine adventure or a long wall. Instead, it is a focused test of sport climbing skill with two short but technical pitches that challenge movement and route-reading. Those comfortable on 5.10c terrain will find the first pitch more enjoyable than the second, which has several less stable sections. This climb is best approached mid-season when the rock is dry and temperatures moderate. Although remote enough to feel like a proper outing, it remains close enough to nearby towns in the Okanagan for climbers to plan day trips with minimal fuss.

For climbers aiming to tackle The Generator, patience and respect for the route’s quirks will enhance the experience. Keeping the rope long draws ready on pitch two will reduce drag, and maintaining vigilance for loose stone can prevent accidents. The gratifying rewards include technical moves under roof features and a chance to sharpen on less-traveled granite. The route’s setting within the regional climbing zone offers scenic, natural views perfectly suited to climbers who appreciate a balance of adventure and pragmatism in their sport climbing pursuits.

Climber Safety

Loose blocks and a tick-infested bush near the upper anchors on pitch two pose hazards—always wear a helmet and double-check footing before committing to moves. Belay only at the top of pitch one; the hanging belay at pitch two is exposed and challenging to manage.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches2
Length180 feet

Local Tips

Avoid linking pitches due to significant rope drag.

Wear a helmet on pitch two—it guards against loose rock and hidden dangers near the anchor.

Long draws on the first four bolts of pitch two ease clipping challenges.

Approach with steady footing; the trail includes mixed terrain and patches of loose stone.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating on pitch two feels stiff partly because of the tricky, loose rock and tricky clipping conditions, while pitch one’s 5.9+ lies comfortably in the moderate range with well-protected cruxes. This route demands precision rather than raw power, suitable for those confident in steady movement on less-than-perfect terrain. Compared to other routes in the Okanagan, The Generator’s second pitch is a step up in seriousness due to rock quality, making it feel harder than many 5.10c sport climbs in the area.

Gear Requirements

Seven bolts and a two-bolt anchor protect pitch one with an additional six bolts and two-bolt anchor on pitch two. Long draws will minimize rope drag on the steeper second pitch, and a helmet is essential, especially for the upper belay where loose rock and brush are present.

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Tags

roof crux
loose rock
technical moves
short pitches
lichen covered
helmet recommended
rope drag