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The Future is Now

Penticton, British Columbia Canada
sport climbing
single pitch
bulge crux
right crack
southwest aspect
technical
secure bolts
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Future is Now
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Future is Now is a single-pitch sport route on Doctors' Wall in Skaha that tests climbers with a right-angled crack and a powerful bulge crux. Offering solid protection and afternoon sun exposure, it’s perfect for those seeking a concentrated challenge in an accessible, scenic setting."

The Future is Now

Perched on Doctors' Wall in the vibrant climbing hub of Skaha, British Columbia, The Future is Now challenges you with a dynamic, single-pitch sport climb that demands precision and poise. This route picks up seamlessly where Grin And Bear It leaves off, inviting climbers to trace a clean, right-angled crack that arcs boldly outward. From the moment your fingers graze the gritty rock, the climb pulls you into a tactile dialog with the stone, asking for calm focus as you confront its defining bulge.

The route’s 11 bolts offer solid protection, allowing you to push confidently through its crux without second-guessing gear placements. The rock here carries a rugged texture that rewards mindful footwork and balance. As you ascend, the crack appears to dare you to commit, while the bulge tests your power and technique in equal measure. The wall’s southwest aspect basks in afternoon sun, making it ideal for climbing in the late morning through the early evening hours during late spring to early fall. Cooler mornings and warm, dry conditions enhance friction and set the stage for a comfortable day on the wall.

Access to Doctors' Wall is a straightforward approach, with trailheads easily reachable from Skaha Lake Road. The path gently rises through open terrain peppered with sparse shrubbery and patches of sun-dappled forest, offering ample space to gather gear and settle focus before the climb. The crag sits within a well-known local climbing group that balances well-maintained routes with satisfying exposure. Whether you’re brushing up your sport climbing skills or hunting for a compact warm-up with a sharp crux, this route offers a blend of technical movement and exciting engagement.

For preparation, tap into rock climbing shoes that support edging and smearing on subtle holds and consider chalk to combat the natural sweat that challenging bulges demand. Hydration is key, especially on sunny days, so pack enough water to stay sharp between climbs. Weather conditions in the Okanagan can shift, so keeping a light windbreaker handy can make a difference in comfort when the sun dips behind the hillside.

Though the route is well-protected and relatively short, it demands focused attention. Mistimed moves on the bulge can lead to unexpected falls, despite the security of bolts. Climbers should approach it prepared for a strenuous sequence that rewards controlled power rather than brute strength. The Future is Now may not extend high above the tree line, but its technical challenge and position within one of Canada’s premier climbing destinations ensure it remains a memorable, essential ascent for sport climbers seeking growth and thrill in a concise package.

Climber Safety

Pay attention to the bulge section where clipping can distract from body positioning—a fall here can result in swinging. Also, inspect the anchor bolts before the climb as frequent use can cause wear. The rock tends to shed loose flakes near the base; a careful look before starting prevents unexpected slips.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start mid-morning to catch the best sunlight and avoid early morning chill.

Bring climbing shoes with strong edging capability for the crack and bulge.

Hydrate well—sun exposure here is strong during peak hours.

Check for loose rock at the base before starting the climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.11d, The Future is Now offers a crisp and focused challenge that feels appropriately stiff. The climb demands precise technique on the crack with a punchy move through the bulge crux that separates it from more straightforward sport routes in the area. Climbers familiar with local 5.11s will find the grading solid, though the physical crux keeps it fresh and demanding.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with 11 bolts and chains, offering straightforward and secure anchors with no need for traditional gear placements.

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Tags

sport climbing
single pitch
bulge crux
right crack
southwest aspect
technical
secure bolts