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The Dream at The Turret: A Classic Trad Climb in Skaha

Penticton, Canada
traditional
hand crack
small cams
single pitch
granite
roof bypass
skaha
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Dream
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Dream is a tight, technical trad climb that challenges you with delicate gear placements and a final hand crack finish. Though short, it offers concentrated traditional climbing in Skaha’s Red Tail Group, perfect for intermediate trad climbers seeking focused adventure."

The Dream at The Turret: A Classic Trad Climb in Skaha

The Dream presents climbers with a compact yet rewarding traditional experience, set against the raw backdrop of Skaha’s Red Tail Group. This short route packs in a satisfying challenge, threading through a sharp corner crack before navigating deftly past two small roofs on the left side, finishing with a committing hand crack that leads to a secure anchor. Though modest in length, The Dream offers all the hallmarks of a classic trad climb: precise gear placements, engaging movement, and a test of both resolve and technique. Situated within The Turret area near Skaha Lake, this route encounters sunlit granite that warms quickly, making it an ideal afternoon destination through the milder seasons.

This climb’s character fits perfectly with adventurous climbers who appreciate the hands-on approach of protecting their own line. A small rack of nuts and cams is sufficient here, rewarding those who move with confidence and a practiced eye for placement. The climb’s crux materializes as you skirt the roofs, demanding balance and commitment to find the right sequence through exposed holds. The final hand crack brings a refreshing finish—rhythmic and direct, yet requiring focus to lock in each move before you clip the anchor above.

While The Dream is enjoyable on its own, linking it with a neighboring route on The Fortress creates a pseudo-multipitch outing that extends the adventure, letting you savor the layered nature of the Red Tail Group’s offerings. Climbers often pair The Dream with 'Et Tu Brutus,' matching technical challenge and grade, maintaining a consistent flow of trad climbing excitement.

Approaching the climb involves a moderate hike through mixed terrain, easing you into the natural setting that defines Skaha’s climbing areas. Granite here feels textured but solid, revealing the wear of the elements yet maintaining trustworthy holds. Conditions are best during spring through fall, with the rock drying quickly after rain and sunny aspects encouraging afternoon climbs.

Preparation is straightforward: bring a light rack focusing on small cams and nuts, wear shoes with a solid rubber edge for crack climbing, and carry adequate water to stay refreshed. The short nature of the climb invites focused effort without an extended endurance test, making it approachable for intermediate climbers ready to spend time placing trad gear and reading the rock.

The Dream invites you into a close conversation with the stone—where every crack and hold demands attention and respect. It’s a climb that may be brief but leaves a lasting impression, encouraging climbers to explore more of Skaha’s classic granite playgrounds. Whether as a standalone project or part of a longer day on The Turret, this route enriches your climb with both tangible challenge and accessible enjoyment.

Climber Safety

Pay close attention to gear placements near the roof sections—misjudged protection here can increase runout risks. The granite is solid but can be slick early in the season, so ensure the rock is dry before climbing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Link The Dream with a route on The Fortress for a longer multi-pitch day.

Bring small to medium cams—hand cracks require careful gear sizing.

Plan to climb in the afternoon to catch the sun-warmed granite.

Approach involves a moderate hike over mixed terrain—wear sturdy shoes.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.9, The Dream feels well balanced with a soft-to-moderate challenge typical for its grade. The crux around the roof bypass adds a punch of technicality, demanding precise footwork and steady gear placements. Compared to nearby climbs, it’s approachable but demands respect to lock moves confidently.

Gear Requirements

A small rack of nuts and cams covers all protection needs here. Focus on compact pro, as placements are tight but reliable.

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Tags

traditional
hand crack
small cams
single pitch
granite
roof bypass
skaha