"The Divine Ms M. blends delicate crack stemming with sport climbing bolt runs in South Platte’s granite walls. This moderate multi-pitch route offers steady protection, diverse moves, and an inviting challenge for intermediate climbers ready to explore Colorado’s unique rock features."
Set within the rugged landscape of Colorado’s South Platte area, The Divine Ms M. offers an engaging mix of trad and sport climbing that invites adventurers to navigate both natural crack systems and well-placed bolts. The climb begins with a shared approach alongside the well-known Charlie Don't Surf, leading you into a zone where granite and feldspar crystal textures demand careful footwork and precise hand placements. The initial 30 feet of the route involves climbing the start of Charlie, then confidently traversing right to clip the first bolt, setting the tone for a climb that balances technical skill and thoughtful protection.
The first pitch winds upward past two or three more bolts to the first anchor, threading through rock features that present compelling challenges without pushing into the extreme. From here, the second pitch follows a striking dark water groove, peppered with 7 to 8 bolts, demanding steady stemming and sharp edging on feldspar crystals. A subtle crux appears near the top of this groove, where balance and technique must come together to make clean moves. This blend of crack and face climbing, with consistent bolt protection, offers a well-rounded experience that earns its moderate 5.9- rating.
Notably, a newer variation at the start climbs up and right of the wide crack known as Erotic Plants (5.6). This recent addition crosses the crack and moves through a few more bolts before reaching a fresh anchor setup just 10 feet right of the traditional first pitch anchors. While this alternative offers reassuring protection, its difficulty and overall quality remain unconfirmed, leaving an intriguing option for those who want to explore slightly off the main line.
Descending is straightforward: rappelling from the top of the second pitch with double ropes will bring you down effectively. A single rope might only get you as far as the new route’s anchors. Though guidebooks mention third and fourth pitches to reach the summit, these sections see little traffic, with most climbers choosing to finish at pitch two.
Gear requirements blend trad and sport elements, recommending 2 to 3 sets of small to medium stoppers alongside 8 to 10 quickdraws or runners to clip bolts efficiently. Approach trails are shared with well-traveled routes, making navigation to the base manageable, although climbers should be prepared for typical mountain weather shifts and ensure secure footing on rocky terrain.
In short, The Divine Ms M. offers a moderately challenging, varied climb perfectly suited for those who appreciate a mix of traditional protection with sport confidence. Its scenic location by Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Campground and practical access combined with compelling movement make it a rewarding climb accessible to intermediate climbers keen to sharpen their skills against Colorado’s varied rock forms.
Watch for potentially slick rock in shaded grooves, especially if moisture is present. The rappel requires double ropes for a full descent; attempting single-rope rappels could leave you stranded above the anchors.
Approach via the trail used for Charlie Don't Surf for a clear and established path.
Expect the second pitch stemming in a dark groove to be the technical heart of the climb.
Check weather conditions carefully as afternoon storms can make granite slick and hazardous.
Double ropes provide safer rappelling options from the top anchors; plan accordingly.
Bring 2-3 sets of small to medium stoppers for traditional gear placements and at least 8-10 quickdraws to clip bolts efficiently. Double ropes are advisable for the rappel, with a single rope possibly reaching only partway down.
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