Adventure Collective

The Castle Climbing Guide: Scrambling to South-Facing Walls Above Candy Store, California

Lone Pine, California
south facing
scramble approach
granite
multi-pitch
trad climbing
classic climb
Ride The Lightning
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Alabama Hills South
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Castle offers an adventurous climb above the iconic Candy Store in California’s Alabama Hills, combining a rugged scramble with quality granite routes. Featuring the classic Ride The Lightning (5.10a), this lightly trafficked area delivers a quiet, focused climbing experience framed by sweeping views and varied terrain."

The Castle Climbing Guide: Scrambling to South-Facing Walls Above Candy Store, California

Perched high above the well-known Candy Store formation, The Castle is a deceptively secluded climbing destination in California’s Alabama Hills that rewards climbers with a quiet escape and rugged terrain. Though clearly visible from below, reaching The Castle demands a bit of grit and navigation—a 3rd class scramble that feels like a mini adventure before the ropes even come out. The approach favors the west side, starting from the tunnel near "Cajun Spice Girls", where a mix of boulder hopping and careful route-finding along a path of least resistance sets the tone for the day. This approach weaves left, right, left in a rhythm that climbers quickly get familiar with, leading toward south-facing walls sheltered beneath towering rock faces.

Once you arrive, you’ll find The Castle offers climbs in an environment where sunlight and shadow blend with the granite. At an elevation of nearly 4,800 feet, the air is crisp and the views from the summit ridge hint at the vastness of the Eastern Sierra landscape. The climbs here don’t flood the area, but each one is a deliberate choice worth making. One highlight is Ride The Lightning (5.10a), a classic line facing east from a prominent alcove on the south-facing wall. Rated 3.5 stars, it offers a quality challenge that fits perfectly with the intentional, low-key vibe of the area.

Setting foot on these south-facing walls means gearing up for conditions that vary with the seasons. Spring through fall typically provide the best window for climbing, with pleasant days balanced by cool shadows in the alcoves. Summertime can bring heat, so early starts are wise. Winter sees fewer visitors due to colder weather and occasional precipitation.

Climbing here feels both timeless and raw. The rocky approach demands focus, and the walls require respect for the exposure and natural features. While there aren’t sprawling route networks, The Castle holds an undeniable allure for those who want to blend scrambling and technical climbing without crowds. Given the moderate but serious scrambling to reach the climbing, it’s helpful to be confident with downclimbing and route-finding skills, as the terrain can be uneven and requires steady footing.

Whether you’re seeking a quiet day away from busier spots or looking to sample a well-earned classic, The Castle delivers. The general absence of well-marked trails beyond the initial approach means planning is key. Bring plenty of water, a reliable guide, and patience, especially if your goal is Ride The Lightning. All gear should be selected to accommodate multi-pitch or longer single-pitch climbs on granite, with consideration for protection placement given the natural, less-developed setting.

This unique combination of scramble and climb, altitude and approach, places The Castle squarely in the category of a climbing experience that engages head and body. The setting in the Alabama Hills South area merges wild, open vistas with intimate rock features, making each ascent a personal accomplishment carved out of the landscape.

For those heading to Lone Pine, the nearby gateway town, The Castle promises a climbing day that balances challenge with a sense of discovery. Whether you come for the singular classic climb or to explore the varied routes quietly tucked above the Candy Store, the destination encourages adventure with a practical edge—remembering always that safety and preparation are the first picks in your rack.

Climber Safety

The approach involves 3rd class scrambling that requires sure-footedness and route-finding skills. Rock is generally solid but uneven terrain demands caution early in the day before climbing begins. No fixed anchors are guaranteed so inspect all protection carefully.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchessingle pitch
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Use the west side approach starting at the tunnel near Cajun Spice Girls for an easier scramble.

Follow the route-finding pattern of left, right, left as you traverse around The Tower to the south-facing walls.

Early morning starts are best, especially in summer months to avoid heat.

Bring a topo or detailed guide as approach photos may be out of order and trail markers are minimal.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Ride The Lightning’s 5.10a rating offers a tough but fair challenge and fits the overall feeling of the area, which tends toward moderate grades with little sandbagging. The climbs expect solid trad skills rather than gym-style difficulty. Compared to nearby Alabama Hills routes, The Castle is less crowded and leans toward traditional and scrambling terrain rather than sport or boulder-focused climbing.

Gear Requirements

Approach involves 3rd class scrambling along a rocky path with boulder hopping. Climbing protection should accommodate natural placements typical of granite, with gear suitable for single-pitch multi-pitch climbs and solid trad rack recommended.

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Tags

south facing
scramble approach
granite
multi-pitch
trad climbing
classic climb
Ride The Lightning