Adventure Collective

The Penguins - Winter Climbing in Alabama Hills’ South Spires

Lone Pine, California
south facing
winter climbing
short approach
solid rock
mixed trad and sport
sun and shade
Length: 65 ft
Type: Trad | Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Alabama Hills
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Penguins in Alabama Hills deliver quality climbing on south-facing spires with a mix of sun and shade ideal for winter adventurers. A brief approach and solid rock set the stage for classic routes like Stem Cell Research and My Little Lab Rat — perfect for those seeking a quiet yet rewarding alpine climbing experience near Lone Pine."

The Penguins - Winter Climbing in Alabama Hills’ South Spires

The Penguins stand as rugged south-facing spires just northeast of the Candy Store, offering a distinctive blend of sun and shade that makes this climbing area unique — especially through the cooler months. At an elevation of 4,651 feet, the rock here holds firm and presents a variety of climbs that strike a balance between accessible adventure and rewarding challenges without an overbearing reputation. Climbers retreat here when the seasons turn chilly, finding ideal conditions for winter climbing that invite exploration beyond the busier nearby crags.

Reaching The Penguins is straightforward yet demands a little attention. From the Candy Store, a familiar hub for Alabama Hills visitors, you drive east toward the Whitney Cave cattle gate but must quickly turn left at the first dirt road north. A short 5-minute hike northeast from the end of this dirt road brings you to the base of the prominent towers. This approach is brief enough to keep fresh legs for climbing but serves as a quiet buffer, setting a calm tone before delivery of the routes.

The rock quality here is solid with excellent friction — a must when winter temperatures cool the stone, maintaining grippy surfaces that refuse to become slick. Weather-wise, this area shines during the colder months when precipitation is less frequent and the sun at lower angles warms the southern aspects comfortably. Climbers can expect a mix of sunlit pitches that bask in mid-day light, alongside shady routes that offer refuge from early winter chill.

Among the classic climbs of The Penguins are Stem Cell Research (5.10a) and My Little Lab Rat (5.10b). These routes, rated at 3.5 and 3.0 stars respectively, highlight the approachable yet technical nature of the area’s offerings. While the full variety of climbs range from moderate to challenging, these classic routes serve as benchmarks for the adventurous climber who values movement finesse over sheer difficulty.

The character of this area reflects its location — Alabama Hills south — with stark, iconic rock formations rising sharply in a somewhat sparse landscape peppered with hardy scrub and open skies. The sensation of climbing here is raw and elemental, grounding you to the Sierra Nevada’s eastern flank, where the interplay of light, shadow, and stone creates a distinct winter playground.

Climbers should come prepared with appropriate gear for both traditional and sport climbing, as route information and rock type imply the need for a versatile rack. Moreover, the close proximity to Lone Pine makes resupplying or lodging simple, but the quieter southern reach of Alabama Hills means fewer crowds, allowing for a more personal connection to the rock.

Winter is the standout season here — moderate sun and cool air keep the stone firm and clean, making it a perfect escape from California’s coastal dampness or summer heat. For safety, watch for unstable dirt along the approach and be mindful of the limited shade during colder mornings. Descents typically involve walking back to the dirt road, so sturdy shoes are essential.

Whether you're drawn by the classic routes or the promise of a winter escape, The Penguins extend an invitation to an accessible yet rewarding climb, where each pitch offers a chance to breathe in a slice of eastern Sierran wilderness during its quietest season.

Climber Safety

Approach trails have sections of loose dirt that can be slippery, especially in wet conditions. While the rock quality is generally good, always inspect protection placements carefully and be prepared for colder temperatures in winter months.

Area Details

TypeTrad | Sport
Pitchessingle pitch
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the dirt road north of Whitney Cave cattle gate; short 5-minute hike.

Ideal climbing season is winter through early spring for best weather and rock conditions.

Bring gear that covers both trad and sport protection due to varying route types.

Watch footing on loose dirt during approach and descent; sturdy shoes recommended.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The Penguins offer climbs mostly in the 5.10 range, balancing technical moves with moderate difficulty. The area's ratings feel true to grade without significant sandbagging, making it accessible for experienced climbers looking for reliable challenges amid spectacular surroundings. Compared to nearby Alabama Hills crags, it delivers a quieter, more measured taste of classic Sierra climbing.

Gear Requirements

Routes are found on solid rock with a good mix of sun and shade. Gear recommended includes a versatile rack suitable for both trad and sport climbs. Lightweight approach shoes suffice for the short 5-minute dirt road walk-in.

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Tags

south facing
winter climbing
short approach
solid rock
mixed trad and sport
sun and shade